Beautiful Smocked Bishop with bound sleeves | Sewing Tutorial

Beautiful Smocked Bishop with bound sleeves | Sewing Tutorial


Hey everyone, I am so excited to share this
style with you. You can use any angle sleeve bishop pattern. I’m using the Children’s Corner Bishop
pattern, but any angle sleeve pattern will do the trick. You’ll cut out your patterns like normal,
being careful to cut very straight around the shoulder seam area. If you cut at an angle here, then you get
more fabric towards the bottom than on the top of the seam, and this can make a hot mess
out of your pleats. Then you’re going to want to cut a bunch
of bias strips. You’ll need enough for the neckline as well
as the sleeve area. I cut two inch wide strips and cut them plenty
long. It’s hard to measure the curves for these
and it’s just one less thing to think about when you cut the strips long. Finally, I cut a strip for the placket strip. Again, two inches wide and plenty long. I generally cut this strip from the selvage
area. So all together, you’ll have two sleeves. I cut mine a smidgen longer than my pattern,
but that’s your call. This way I have some seam allowance to sew
into with the idea of mimicking a cap sleeve look. Then there’s one front cut on the fold as
well as two backs and then all that bias strip and finally, one placket strip. I began this bishop by sewing the shoulder
seams together using French seams. I have a detailed video on French seams that
I’ll link below. Keep the French seams for this really tiny,
say 1/16” or 1/8” And remember, we don’t need to finish the edge of the sleeves yet. I know it feels weird since that’s the first
step with any other bishop. But yeah, just leave it raw. So when you are done putting the bishop together,
you’ll have a back piece, then a sleeve, then the front piece, the other sleeve, and
finally the other back. Of course, you could do a bishop that closed
with buttons or such all down the front and then your back and front pieces would be reversed….
but anywho. Moving on, I gave everything a good ironing. And then I checked to see how many needles
my sleeve required to be fully pleated. Then I rolled the whole dress up on my wooden
dowel to be pleated. I have a detailed video on how to pleat fabric
with a smocking machine that I’ll link below. I also have a video on how to pleat by dots
if you’d rather go that route. Sometimes I feel like a spokesperson or something,
oooh watch this video, that’s really not like my personality, but it’s so much easier
than putting the repeat sections into every video, especially with a little one, my time
is way limited. Anywho, once you get your fabric pleated,
then you can pull a handful of pleats out on each back section so you’ll have a seam
allowance to attach the strip for the placket later on. I like to start the blocking process by tying
one side of threads together in groups of twos or threes. Then I pin the back, shoulder seams, center
front, other shoulder seams and other back to my blocking board. This board is super helpful and I’ll link
where you can purchase one below. Then I pull the threads taught, and it’s
kinda a game of pulling taught, readjusting the fabric, pulling, readjusting, until everything
is laying really nice and flat. If it’s not flat here, it won’t get any
better as you smock… so if you don’t have the patience today, come back when you do. You don’t want to rush this step. When everything is laying nice and flat, you
can tie off the other side of threads in groups of twos or threes. So then I worked on the back placket. To begin, I sewed a French seam starting where
the bottom of the placket will be. So you’ll skip, I dunno, six inches or so,
depending on the size you’re making and then start sewing. You’ll do the French seam the normal way,
but I clip at the top of the seam. This just helps with sewing the French seam
and placket and keeping that overlap neat and tidy. So then you can attach the placket strip to
the dress and I have a detailed video that I’ll link below. I gave the placket strip an ironing and moved
onto the neck binding. And as you know if you’ve seen my other
tutorials lately, I’ve become a huge fan of this freezer paper stuff. So I cut some strips and sorta aligned them
with the neckline. I am ironing these into the right side of
the dress. And of course, you want to make sure your
pleats are evenly distributed before you do this. Now you’ll only be able to do a section
of the neckline at a time before having to reposition. The whole neckline won’t lay flat at once
anymore since the back of the dress is now sewn together. You’ll take a bias strip and iron that in
half. So since I ironed the strips onto the right
side of the dress, they are out of the way when it comes to sewing. What I mean is that I’m able to see my pleating
threads as I sew the binding to the neckline from the wrong side of the dress. I hope that’s making sense… luckily you
have a visual. So basically I’m choosing to sew right below
the first row of pleating threads. I use this holding row to keep my seam allowance
even with the pleats. Then you can tear off the freezer paper. Check to make sure none of your stitches rip
in the process. At this point, the pleats are secure to the
neck binding, so if they rip, just go over them with your machine… no biggie. So normally I have to trim some of the seam
allowance here to allow the neck binding to fold over and meet those stitches. However, this fabric is so fine that I didn’t
need to do that. But if you have to remove some bulk in order
to get the binding to meet the neckline, so ahead and do that now. I like to use those stitches to secure the
neck binding in place by hand later on. Sooo now onto the sleeves. This is kinda a rise and repeat from the neck
binding. You’ll attach the strips of freezer paper
to the right side of the dress, then take that to your machine and sew the bias strip,
again this is ironed in half, and sew that to your dress. You’ll put your needle down around the corner
areas and pivot and adjust as needed. These armholes aren’t a sharp corner, but
they do require a bit of a pivot. I did trim up the seam allowance here and
then ironed the strip over and around to the back side of the dress in preparation of the
French seams that’ll join the side of the dress. You’ll want to make sure those folded edges
of the bias strips stay folded as you take them to your machine to sew the French seam. Well, this is true if you save your hand sewing
until the end like me. But anywho, I think you get my drift. Once the French seams are done, then you just
have to hem your dress. You can attach lace to the end of the dress,
and I have a detailed video on how to do that that I’ll link below. I decided to hem by folding up about half
an inch of fabric all the way around and ironing that in place. Then I folded up about four inches for htat
lovely deep hem look. I would pin up four inches in one spot, go
over a little ways, pin up four inches in that spot and iron in between. I sewed the hem down by hand. After you finish your smocking and hand work,
here is the finished dress. I love this really delicate look, but with
most outfits, there are a ton of different embellishments. It would also look adorable as a shorter version,
kinda like a shirt. I love, love, love the bounded sleeves…
definitely going to be a repeat for me. Anywho, I hope this was helpful. If you have any questions, please leave them
in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them. As always, I appreciate y’all for watching
and I hope to catch y’all next time.

44 thoughts on “Beautiful Smocked Bishop with bound sleeves | Sewing Tutorial

  1. Beatiful ! I want a machine for pleated!Please tell me the name machine and i-net magazin(score), site(online store).

  2. Love it so much and what an adorable baby. SHe reminds me a lot of my daughter when she was little.

  3. Hi Sarah I can perfectly understand how this has become your favorite dress and how you would want to repeat it. I find it so sweet and delicate. Congratulations on this little piece of art.

  4. Hi Sarah, what is the name of the paper you put on the cloth with the iron? Greetings and blessings.

  5. Hello, I just started all this awesomeness pleating!! Ur videos are really awesome! Would love to see more. 🙂

  6. do you trace your pattern onto tracing paper and us that to cut out your fabric 🙂 so exited i just went out and baught a bunch of sewing supplies and nice fabric to make some of these patterns which iv also just ordered online

  7. hi, I'm a keen watcher of your videos. I have recently acquired an Amanda jane pleater and have had fun learning to use it, when you have completed your smoking do you remove all your gathering threads, on all or just some thanks. love your videos

  8. I would LOVE to see a video of you actually doing the smocking/embroidery on some of these dresses. I know you take them in the car and stuff, but if you could just record a few hours and then upload it would be amazing. Even if it had to be sped up a little.

  9. obsessed with these videos your work is so tidy iv still go to get that part down my work is abit of a hot mess with all this learning on how to sew would love to see u create another one of these dresses hope all is well look forward to future videos

  10. Hello Sarah! I've been smocking for 17 years and recently started teaching smocking. Your videos are extremely well made and full of great tips, and I have shared them with my students. The bound angel sleeve look is a favorite of mine, and now I'll be able to reproduce it with your tutorial! It seems a bit tricky, do you plan to make a more detailed version of this technique? Thank you, I love that you are so young and so passionate about heirloom sewing.

  11. Thank you for all you teach and sharing your darling daughter with us. I am new to smocking and want to learn everything I can. I would really like to have you show us how to read a smocking plate, so it makes sense to a newbie. By the way, congrats on being the kind of young lady that can do more than look good, your nails show you aren't afraid to do things. Love it

  12. And the reason for the freezer paper is to keep the pleats positioned as you attach the bias neck band? 
    So glad you guided me to this location. Never thought of stitching on the wrong side close to visible pleater thread to stay even.

  13. What a gorgeous little dress, and a wonderful tutorial!
    …do you have any idea where I could get a pattern like this for a woman's blouse?

  14. Sarah you are such an inspiration! I'm learning how to smock and I want to ask you if you have any tutorial on Van Dike stich?

  15. Hi Sarah,I am just very new to this so I am so very grateful for your great videos.Thank you very much-you are doing fabulous especially considering fact you have two small babies (I call all kids babies 🙂 ).May I please ask-did you do backsmocking in upper and middle part of this smocked dress (above embroidered roses)?Thank you very much,wishing you all the very best 🙂 .

  16. Hello Sarah 🙂 I have watched this video already but I found it very helpful again 🙂 thank you very much.Can I ask please-do block your bishops after you do your smocking…?And-after you wash any bishop-would those blocked pleats stay in the place..?Thank you very much for your opinion 🙂 .

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