Stitch number 78 and 79 are blanket stitches,
a single version and a triple version. Triple version makes it look like you’ve stitched
it with floss by hand, giving you that kind of thick rustic look. We’re going to start
off with the single version, number 78. You want to line up the needle so it goes into
the base fabric first, and then it’s going to jump over the edge of your applique. This
is great if you’ve got just raw edge applique to do. Now, this is sometimes a little hard,
to guide it down the middle of the foot like I’m doing. I don’t really have anything of
reference other than just watching the needle and staring at it. First off, I love the Bernina magnifier glasses.
You can add that onto any of the Bernina sewing machines and it’s going to make staring down
at that small stitch a lot easier than just with your regular eyes. Check out the magnifying
glass at your local Bernina store. What I do like to do is move the needle position
to the far right. Now, I’m going to just kind of move my fabric over so my stitch looks
like I’ve continued to stitch but now, there’s a place for the raw edge to run right next
to the inside of the toe. Do you see how easy that is, to kind of just keep it going, and
then that will work your way around. Now, as I approach a corner here, what I want
to do is utilize my needle down feature, and we only pivot when the needle’s on the right
side of the stitch. So pivoting, and this is where that presser foot lifter comes in
really handy so you can keep both hands on the fabric, stop using that presser foot lifter.
Another thing too, is after you start stitching is to evaluate the size of the stitch based
on the piece you’re going around. If it’s something really tiny and small, you probably
want to drop down the width end of the stitch as well as the length. I tend to kind of keep
them proportional, so if the stitch width is two, then I like the length is two. If
the stitch is three, make the length at three. Go ahead and just adjust it based on your
fabric, we have the look that you want, but it’s really easy to set that up. Let’s go ahead and switch over to the heavier
stitch, stitch number 79. Then, I’m going to put the needle back to the far right needle
position. Okay, now when this stitches, it’s going to back and forth or bite inside. One,
two, three, four, and then, it goes to go forward back forward. Yes, there’s quite a
few stitches. At any given time, when you stop, you need to know, “Is that machine going
to stitch in? Is it going to go back before you pivot?” Because you don’t want to be pivoting
kind of in the middle of a forward-back sequence where you might kind of offset the stitch.
You kind of just need to get the rhythm, but boy does this really make it look good. I’m
just going to stitch a little bit more here so you can see the difference of these stitches. This would definitely look good a little bit
larger on thicker projects. Maybe you’re doing a wool applique. I’m going to stop here, do
that pivoting, so I can catch. I always try to keep the bites that are coming toward the
inside of the project perpendicular to the edge. If I feel like they’re going to start
to slant because I haven’t pivoted the fabric, stop as soon as you can and get that turned.
All right. Right to there. Needle up and then pull it out. Look at how beautiful it is.
Whether you choose the regular stitching of the single or the heavier version here.