Classic & Vintage Ocean Waves | Fat Quarter Shop

Classic & Vintage Ocean Waves | Fat Quarter Shop


(upbeat music) – Welcome to the Classic
and Vintage series where we take old blocks
and make them new. Today we’re working with
the ocean waves block and I’m gonna simplify it for
you by using triangle paper. So it’s gonna come together
just like a breeze. We’re using Minick and
Simpson’s collection called North Port and we selected it since it’s got lots of blues and it’s gonna give you
a really scrappy effect. And this is a free block pattern, you can get it in the
description box below. And if you want to turn this block into a crib, lap, twin, or queen, you can purchase a low price
pattern at Fat Quarter Shop. So let’s get started. Today I’m gonna show you
how to make this block just using two fabrics. You’re gonna download your free pattern, and you’re gonna cut some rectangles. You’re gonna take your
fabric A and fabric B and put them right side together. That’s the most important
part of this step. And you want to make
sure everything is ironed and pressed before you start. Then you’re gonna take
a 2 1/2 inch finished Triangles on a Roll paper, it’s my favorite brand. And we’re gonna cut a
section that’s two by three. You’ll want to cut directly on that line where it’s really nice and
clean because that does matter. And then what you can do
is just set this aside. If you don’t want your
paper to roll around, you can just close it with washi tape. You put your fabrics right side together and put your paper on top. And remember everything nice and flat. I’m gonna put some pins
in all three layers, and I’m not gonna pin near the lines. I’m just gonna put a couple pins in, keeping it nice and flat. And then I’m gonna use Aurifil color 2000 and we’re gonna go to the sewing machine. Use an open toe foot so you can see where your needle is going. You’re gonna stitch on the dotted lines using a 1.5 stitch length
and a size 80 needle. So when you’re stitching, you wanna stitch directly on the line, not to the left, not to the right, so you get perfectly accurate triangles. (machine whirring) If you keep your needle in
the needle down position, you can just pivot and keep going. Okay now that I’m done sewing,
I’m just gonna make sure that I have covered all of the lines. And when I’m stitching
on the dotted lines, I kinda just go in whatever direction, I don’t really plan
that out ahead of time. So now we have everything stitched. You’ll just remove your pins. And then we’re gonna
cut on the solid lines. I like to cut all the way
on the outside edges first, and again right on the line will give you nice triangles. And using a rotating
mat is totally optional, but sometimes it can help
you on the next step. I like to take my time when I’m doing this so that I cut really nice and
straight, I don’t go too fast. So now what I’m gonna try to do is I’m gonna try to
cut here in the center. I’m gonna do that first. And then I’m gonna try to move my ruler where I don’t move the paper
and then I can keep cutting. Now if your paper moves, then you’ll need to just cut individually
one at a time at this point. But this sometimes will save
me a little bit of time. And see that moved, so
I’m just gonna put it right back together and make
sure it’s a straight line. And this gives us six squares, and that is gonna give us 12 triangles. So now once I have that cut, I’m gonna cut the diagonal lines. Now the diagonal lines
is your seam allowance so you don’t have to be as accurate, ’cause it’s gonna be hidden, but you will want it to
be a general 1/4 inch, but these lines don’t matter as much. And then what I’m gonna do
is I, oops I missed one. I like to fold my paper
back, get it creased, and then I put my little
thumb right on that tip and just pull and the paper
should come right off. If you don’t, like if you don’t crease it, it’ll still come off, it
just won’t be as smooth. So totally up to you how you
wanna pull the paper off, but having a shorter stitch length is what is going to let
that paper come right off. And Triangles on a Roll has
a really nice thin paper. Sometimes if you have triangle paper that the paper is actually too thick, it’s gonna be hard to pull off. So you’re gonna pull
all of these papers off, and then we are gonna move to pressing. So here what I like to do is just have my triangles nice
and flat and set the seam. And that just means really nice and flat, pressing that down, what that does is it really
locks your stitches in. And then we’re gonna
be pressing these open. I like to press open a little
bit different than most people what I like to do first
is press to one side. And I’m gonna do all 12, I’m gonna stack them on top of each other because that gets all of the
seams really nice and flat and when I’m pressing, I’m
putting the very edge of my iron right on that seam so that
I don’t get a duck pleat. A duck pleat looks like
this, I’ll show you. A duck pleat looks like this where your seam is not
all the way pressed open. So I don’t like that. So I’m gonna do all 12 first to one side. That kind of lets it cool
off before I press open. So I kind of like ironing ’em in stacks, it just gets the seams
below it nice and flatter. And you’ll notice when I
iron, I don’t rock my iron, I just iron nice and flat. Then I’m gonna go to the
stack that I did first, which are less hot, because I
tend to burn myself on this. What you can do is just
finger press this open. Once you get it nice and
flat with your fingers, then run your iron over it. And then I’m gonna set those to the side. And we’re pressing the
seams open on this block because there are so many intersections when you start putting the
blocks together into your quilt, and so the top will lay nice and flat. And then once you’re done, we’re gonna clip off the little dog ears. So you’re not gonna cut
into the front at all, you’re just gonna cut
these little edges off on all 12 of your triangles. So unfortunately on
this I don’t really have any time-saving tricks for you, I just say do it all at one
time and get it over with ’cause it’s not so fun to do this, I know. So just chop, chop, chop, and then we can put the block together. Nice sharp scissors help. Now we have all 12 of our triangles and we’re gonna start laying
out and making our unit. Now in our example, we’re
just using one fabric. And if you’re gonna make this into a quilt following our pattern, you
would make this scrappy, but we’re gonna simplify and just do this. So our first unit is gonna
be put together this way. We’re going to put our units,
first I like to lay them out and just make sure that
they’re laid out correctly, and then I’m gonna put
them right sides together and I’m gonna put a couple pins in and then we’re gonna go
to the sewing machine and we’re going to turn this into a unit. We’re gonna be using a 1/4 inch seam and we’re going to chain
piece these together so that when we come back,
they stay in the same order. So we’re just gonna chain
piece all the way down using a 1/4 inch seam. So I’ve changed to a 1/4 inch foot and I’m just gonna stitch,
now when I start stitching I’m gonna change my
stitch length to a 2.0. (sewing machine whirring) I’m gonna chain piece in
between each, keep sewing. And you’ll notice when you pin, you want this to be really
nice and square on the end. And you can see our
pieces are still together, so we’re gonna go iron. So now we are going to keep
these together, set my seams, and then we’re gonna press open. So I’m gonna just press
both to the same side first and let that sit. And you can see that this
is chain pieced together so everything stays in
place like it should be. Now I’m gonna flip this over, finger press both of these open, and they should stay, since
it’s hot they’ll probably stay, but just press over it one more time. Everything’s nice and flat. And now we’re going to, at
this point, cut them apart, and I’m gonna give you a pinning tip. So I kept those together just so that everything would stay together. And if you’re looking at your
pattern, it’s really this way. And I’m going to take a pin, first I’m gonna put these
right side together, I’m gonna put a pin
right in the intersection where the point is, I call it poke a pin. Pit it right in that intersection, and then I’m gonna put that same pin in the second intersection, second point, gonna make it nice and flat and I’m gonna put a pin on
each side to keep it in place. And then I’m going to
pin at this intersection and at the beginning. And we are gonna go stitch
down this with a 1/4 inch seam. So again I’m gonna set my
seam, press to one side, we have to finger press that down first. Turn it over and then
we’re gonna pull this open and press this open. You’re gonna make two of these units and this is your ocean unit. So we’re halfway done, we’re
gonna keep building our block. We’re gonna take a fabric C rectangle, a fabric D square, and
a half-square triangle. Now you wanna really look at your pattern and make sure that they’re
going the correct direction. We’re gonna stitch this with
a 1/4 inch seam and press. And again, this whole
block is pressed open. You’re gonna use the
techniques we already did. And then you’re gonna sew
the C to the bottom part, and this is what your unit will look like. This is your top wave unit,
and you’re gonna make one. Now we’re gonna move to
our bottom wave unit. You’re gonna lay your units out, these are your half-square triangles, make sure they’re going
the correct direction, and we’ll be adding a fabric D square. So you’re gonna stitch these
together with a 1/4 inch seam, stitch these together with a
1/4 inch seam, stop and press. Use those same techniques we
used in the very beginning. And then you’re gonna sew this together. And again, when you’re
sewing this together, this final line, you’re
gonna use poke a pin method so that all your seams nest. And this is going to be
your bottom wave unit, and you’re gonna make one. Now we’re gonna put
together all our units. So you’re gonna take your ocean units that we made in the very
beginning, just follow your pattern for your half-square triangle placement. Then we’re gonna put our top wave unit and our bottom wave unit, and all of our half-square triangles are going the same direction. Everything is nice and pressed open. And then at this point, we’re
going to put these together and these together and we’re
gonna stitch down that line. And when you’re doing that,
you’re gonna wanna pin just like we did in the first steps. So you’re gonna put a poke a pin there and a poke a pin here. Pin everything, go to your sewing machine. Once those are together, you’re
gonna stitch this together. And again poke a pin, you’re
gonna put a pin, a pin, a pin, and all your seams are
gonna come out perfectly and here is your ocean wave block. It is nice and beautiful. And remember this is a free pattern. And if you would like to
make it into a bigger size, we have a low price pattern
available at Fat Quarter Shop. We would love for you to
subscribe to our YouTube channel. And I’ll see you next week. (upbeat music) (whirring)
(metallic clicking)

19 thoughts on “Classic & Vintage Ocean Waves | Fat Quarter Shop

  1. This is a beautiful pattern, Kimberly. Is there a version of it that does not require using the triangle paper? I'm a newer quilter and was just wondering…thanks!

  2. Trim your points before you press open the half-square triangles. That way you cut time in half on that part of the technique.

  3. Hi….save time…by clipping the dog-ears before you press them open…then you only have to cut 2 per piece rather than 4.

  4. Kimberly,
    Do you use a separate rotary cutter for the triangle paper since it is with paper and just fabric?
    Kimberly K.

  5. merci a vous ce que vous faite est très jolis mais malheureusement dans payer vos livres est tous que vous comme materiel de patchwork sa ce vent pas ,mais malgré tout j'essaye pratique vos leçons

  6. Awesome. I have triangle paper but haven’t tried to use it yet so this helps especially with the stitch length because I wasn’t sure. Thanks a bunch!!

  7. Hello Kimberly. Why are you pressing seam to one side then open them. What the point ? You can save time by pressing them open in the first time . Thank you

  8. Thanks for this tutorial, Kimberley! That fabric line looks great. (I have heard that pressing seams open leaves the seam weaker, and could split open after it's been quilted and finished (with regular use of the quilt). A seam pressed to one side is much less likely to split open. Just a tip from other quilters.)

  9. I haven't used this particular paper, but, I've used moda's 10" ones for layer cakes. I love love love this paper idea. So accurate and my brain smiles when I use them.

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