Crochet for Knitters – Wavy Blanket Tutorial

Crochet for Knitters – Wavy Blanket Tutorial


[music] in this video in the Crochet for Knitters
series we’re going to learn to make this blanket. it’s called the Wavy Blanket, and it’s designed
by my friend Stephanie Gage. Stephanie is a photographer, she’s a knitter,
a crocheter, she dyes yarn, she makes beautiful yarn on her website Spinning Colors. and she has several patterns available on
Ravelry. and i will give you all the links where you
can find stephanie in the video description below as well as on my website. also if you’d like to get your free copy of
this pattern to follow along, here’s a link to my website, take you there, and i’ll link
from there where you can get your free pattern. um, this pattern is really very simple, but
very versatile. you can use any yarn and any hook, and really
make this work for you, any way that you want. stephanie has given us a specific yarn weight
and a specific hook size to make a baby blanket. and you can look on Ravelry, a lot of people
have knit this already. and you can see what they’ve done with different
yarns and different colors. i get a lot of inspirations when i go to ravelry
and i see the color combinations that people have put together for different things. it’s always very cool to see. but we’ll give you instructions for making
this any width. you can make this baby blanket size, throw,
twin, all the way up to a king size blanket. the only limitation is the yarn you have to
crochet it with, really. and i want to show you a few of the examples
that i have here. let’s go ahead and take a look. this is an exreme. because instead of using worsted weight yarn,
which is what the pattern calls for, i’ve gone down to a fingering weight yarn. a sock weight yarn, in a cotton silk blend. so the color definition really pops, and a
much finer, a much finer fabric that is created from it. all of the information about everything that
you see here, all of these yarns and the needle sizes that i used are all in the video description
field below, as well as on my website. because i have a lot of different samples
to show you, a lot of different yarns. anyway, there is one two color option. here is a sample i worked up in baby colors. this is out of a machine washable yarn in
three different colors, all traditional baby colors. and here’s a worsted weight one that i did,
using leftover yarn from other projects. i had wool yarn leftover from a million different
projects, i just kept grabbing a different color and working with it. and i would actually love to do a whole blanket
like this! to use up leftovers, because it looks really
cool. and here is the last sample, which is close
to the finished blanket photo that you just saw. in the photo that we put in of my finished
blanket, that’s knit with two strands of worsted held together. i keep saying knit! you know i mean crochet,
right? this is crocheted with one strand of bulky
yarn. and it gives a much bulkier effect, really
quick way to work up a blanket using bulky yarn. now the pattern tells you how many to chain
to start with for the baby blanket stephanie gives instructions for. but really, you can make this any width. this pattern, as long as you start wtih a
multiple of 12 plus 3, you can make it in any width. and if you need, if you want to see my math
for knitters video on x + y, the way this pattern is worked, multiple of 12 plus 3,
i’ll give you a link here to that video. really you need to knit up a swatch, see how
wide one pattern repeat is for you, to determine how many to chain for any given width. you can also save yourself a little bit of
time by looking at the projects on Ravelry. maybe someone used the same weight of yarn
that you want to use, you can always just see in their notes if they tell you the starting
chain number that they used. anyway, next up, we’re going to get started
on the blanket. if you have your free copy of the pattern,
you have the hook you want to use, you have the yarn you want to use, and as many colors
as you want to use, you’re ready to go. i’m going to show you how to work this and
put all of these stitches together. in this blanket, there are four different
stitches used besides the starting chain. single crochet, half double crochet, double
crochet, and triple crochet. and if you are somewhat familiar with these
stitches, this tutorial should be enough to remind you and get you going on your blanket
right away. if any one of those stitches you’re not familiar
wtih, i’m going to give you a link to a very slow demonstration of each stitch as we get
to that stitch in the pattern. then you can watch that, learn that stitch,
maybe you’ve never worked a triple crochet before, then you can come back and watch this
video to put all of those together. let’s get started with the pattern. we’re going to get started with the starting
chain here. um, let me get a sample. in this pattern, i changed colors every two
rows. and you repeat, well, the very first part
you just work a row one time and then you change color after one row. then, from then on, to get these diamond shapes,
you work two of the exact same row, which is row 2 and 3. then you switch to rows 3 and 4, 2 and 3,
3 and 4. this will make sense in a minute, but i’m
going to change color every two rows, which is what i want you to see here. so i’m going to start with this blue color,
and start with a slip knot. and i’m going to chain, as we talked about
before, a multiple of 12 plus 3. i’m going to do two pattern repeats in this
sample, so i’m going to chain 24 plus 3, 27. i was very careful not to talk at all during
that counting. because i’m notorious for losing count while
i’m teaching in video. so i have my starting chain, and the first
bit of instructions in row 1, which is a setup row that you only work one time. i’m going to begin in the second stitch from
the hook, one two, and i’m goign to work a single crochet. and this is going to give us the bottom border. so you can either work from teh top leg of
the V, or you can work from teh spine of the crochet chain. what i call the hyphens on the back of the
crochet chain. it’s entirely up to you. i like to work from the top leg of the V. so i skip the first one, i’m going to work
a single crochet into that first stitch. and i’m going to work a single crochet into
the next stitch. so, two single crochets. now, we want to get wider, so the crochet
stitches are going to get taller. now we’re going to work two half double crochets. you yarn over first, go into the next stitch,
grab the yarn and pull up a loop, grab the yarn and pull through all three. i’m going to work a second one. yarn over, into the next sttich, pull up a
loop, grab the yarn and pull through all three. i forgot to do what i promised! here is a link to the slow version demonstration
of the single crochet. and here is a link to a slow version demonstration
of the half double crochet. and i’ll be sure to give you a link to the
chain stitch as well, if you need it. next is the double crochet. so we went single crochet, half double crochet
is a bit taller, double crochet are even taller. yarn over, into the next stitch, grab the
yarn and pull up a loop, you have three, grab the yarn and pull through two, grab the yarn
and pull through two. and here’s a link to a very slow demonstration
of the double crochet. here it is again – we work all of these in
pairs, so here’s my second double crochet. grab the yarn and pull up a loop, grab the
yarn and pull through two, grab the yarn and pull through two. okay, now we’re ready to move on to triple
crochet. and this requires two yarn overs, or yarning
over twice. so you do yarn over, yarn over again. so it looks like you have three loops on the
hook right now. into the next stitch, grab the yarn and pull
up a loop, grab the yarn and pull through two, grab the yarn and pull through two, grab
the yarn and pull through two. and you know you’re finished with a crochet
stitch when there’s just one loop left on the hook. and here’s a link to a slow demonstration
of the triple crochet. again, yarn over twice. into the next stitch, grab the yarn and pull
up a loop. grab the yarn and pull through two, grab the
yarn and pull through two, grab the yarn and pull through two. so that’s the tallest part of this pattern. two single crochets, two half double crochets,
two double crochets, and two triple crochets. now we’re going to go back down. back down shorter. and this is all very clear in the pattern,
of course. i’m going to work two double crochets. two half double crochets. and then two single crochets. and now we’re ready to go back up in length. so, half double crochets. a couple of rows in this pattern, and you
can do it in your sleep. double crochets. and triple crochets. and a little extra patience is always required
when you’re working the first row. working into the foundation chain is the hardest
row. so we get it over with first. half double crochets. and two single crochets. and that’s the end of the row. okay. that’s my first row, beautiful foundation
row. now i’m going to show you how to change color,
and work row 2. i’m going to have to work from the wrong end
of this yarn. i have broken the yarn from this blue color,
because i knwo that after row 1 i’m ready to change color. i’ll flip this over, i have my new yarn ready
to go. this is how i like to change color. it’s best to have a surface to work on, your
lap is usually fine. i grab the new color of yarn and pull it through
that loop. and then tighten everything up. and tie the old end to the new end. in a tight knot. usually i find i can just weave in the ends
after that and everything’s fine, i can leave the knot there. sometimes the knot loosens up, you need to
end up taking it out. but if nothing else, it’s going to hold that
stable while i continue on with the rest of the blanket. so now i’m going to start wtih row 2, and
with color b, that i’ve just added, you want to chain 3. and begin the next stitch in the 5th chain
from the hook. so that means we skip the first one in the
old color and move on to the next one. and the reason for that is that this first
chain 3 is going to count as our first triple crochet. because what we’re doing here, this is the
row i just finished. now we’re going to work long – we worked short
stitches into long, now we’re going to work long stitches into short. so my first stitch is a triple crochet, and
that chain up counts as the first one. so i’ll skip that first stitch, and go into
the second one with a triple crochet. so now we start to get shorter. and i work double crochet. half double crochet. and then single crochet. and you can always tell you’re on track in
this blanket because the triple crochets are really easy to identify. they are just super long stitches that you
can see really easily. you can identify them from the double crochets
next to them. so if you are working the shortest stitch
in the new color into the longest stitch in the old color, you are on track. and i’m working my two single crochets into
the two triple crochets from the last row. after i finish row 2, i turn the work. row 3 is exactly like row 2. and that gives us the diamond shape, by working
two of the same row, in the same color before we move on to the next row, in a different
color. next up we’re going to talk about working
rows 4 and 5, which are not very different from rows 2 and 3. and weaving in the ends. one nice thing about this blanket is that
there aren’t very many things to learn to be able to knit, or crochet, the whole thing. we’ve covered everything up to rows 4 and
5, which i’m going to demonstrate right now. and then i’m going to show you my trick for
weaving in ends. so let’s get right in to rows 4 and 5. look at this yarn matches my nails, that was
not intentional. i’ve already worked row 4 here, i want to
show you how putting the two of them together makes this diamond shape. so i changed color on the last row. this was the setup row. row 1, row 2. whoops, setup row, row 3, row 4, now i’m going
to work 5. so i put my hook back into the work. and i’ll tell you another trick. when you need to put your crochet down for
a little while. you can either pull the loop really big to
keep it from going anywhere. or you can do something that i do, which is
i take a clippie marker. and put it in there so that you don’t lose
any stitches. and just take the hook out of the work. very different from knitting! you have a lot of stitches to manage in knitting,
and not jsut one loop. okay, so row 5, which is exactly the same
as row 4, starts with a chain 1. and unlike the triple crochet chain up, this
does not count as a single crochet. we’re actually goign to work two single crochets
into the first two stitches. so you skip the chain up that you just did,
and work two single crochets. going under both legs of the V. and then moving up to two double, or half
double crochets. two double crochets. two triple crochets, and again here we are. triple crochets are really easy to recognize
because they’re super long. and i know that i’m on track wtih the pattern
because i’m going to be working two triple crochets into the two triple crochets because
we’re in the same color. okay. and then from here i start going back down
then back up again, just following the pattern. and now i want to show you my trick for weaving
in ends. especially if you’re using a non wool yarn,
a machine washable yarn. because wool yarn, when you weave in an end
with wool yarn, it will end up felting a little bit, and the end is not likely to come unraveled. but if you’re using a washable yarn, like
a synthetic yarn or a cotton yarn, that doesn’t happen. it’s not going to felt to itself so you’re
more likely to have pokey ends coming out with machine washing. this is a trick that i like to do to make
sure that the end is secure, so it can be machine washed and dried, just following the
directions on your yarn label. so i have my tapestry needle and the end i
want to weave in. and of course you want to weave in the end
into the same color. i wouldn’t want to weave this pink end into
the blue. and i’m not doing anything fancy here. i’m just getting the end away from the edge
at this point. and if i pull it through and i don’t like
the way it looks, actually i’m not happy with that little bit right there. i’m going to take that part out, and weave
it through a little bit more. that’s good. okay, that won’t show. then i’m going to untwist the plies. and separate the plies half and half. and this is a four ply yarn. this happens to be wool, i don’t really have
to do this technique with the wool. but the demonstration is the same, either
way. i take half of those plies and thread them
back on the needle. and then take that just one loop away. just so that the two halves of the plies,
the two halves of the yarn aren’t coming out of the same spot. so you can tie a knot in this. careful on the first half, not too crazy tight. then do the second half, and pull like crazy. really tight. just shy of breaking the yarn. if you really feel the yarn start to give,
loosen up! [laughs] but just shy of breaking the yarn, and hold
it. that will be a really tight knot. then you can take your scissors and cut it
really close. those little ends will blend into the fabric
and not be noticeable at all. and you can confidently wash this knowing
those ends are secure. those are all the tricks i have for you for
working this wavy blanket. many thanks to stephanie gage for letting
us use her pattern. Good luck! [whooshing sounds] [music]

1 thought on “Crochet for Knitters – Wavy Blanket Tutorial

  1. I'm a fairly experience crocheter but your technique for splitting the yarn and knotting after weaving in the ends is GENIUS! I have no idea why I never thought of it before, but it's the best method I've found for making sure you don't have unraveling or any sticky-outy ends that pop out after washing! Thank you so much!!! (Love this pattern, by the way.)

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