100 thoughts on “How to Make Flash Cotton

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  2. The yellow stuff is potassium bisulfate produced when the postassium nitrate reacts with sulfuric acid. BTW these guys are reckless. A simple klutzy splash could have been a disaster.

  3. And the reason the fluffier cotton worked faster than the wad of cotton was because of dencity, the wad was so compact that it didn't have enough oxygen to flare up faster. Take all of the cotton and just pull it apart more space means bigger flare…

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  5. You can buy nitric acid at the hardware store no need to make weak nitric acid mixed with potassium bisulphate and all the other shit in the drain cleaner and stump remover which would probably only make your flash cotton less effective, hard to tell without knowing what's in both the products

  6. I was disappointed that they didn't get the good old runaway with unstoppable orange nitrogen dioxide fumes.

  7. The yellow is the decomposition product of nitric acid. They had an excess of acid, and it will decompose into NO2 and water over time. NO2 dissolves in water, giving a yellow to brown solution depending on the concentration.

  8. Important safety not:
    It is not generally considered safe to use nitrile or latex gloves with nitric acid. Obviously at the concentration they've produced, it isn't a big problem, however, it can cause the gloves to combust, and even if it doesn't, it can still seep through the gloves.

  9. I suspect the "crust" was potassium bisulfate, which would slow down the reaction. If this is the case, it could be removed with more thorough washing. As to why it was yellow, my only explanation for that is there was some impurity left over from your drain cleaner. Additionally, the reason that packing the cotton more densely didn't cause it to burn more slowly is because fully nitrated cellulose does not require outside oxygen to burn, so packing it more tightly will actually cause it to burn hotter and faster.

  10. The white one burned better because it had less acid. The acid moved to the sides. It’s like meth, the purer, the better.

  11. The white burnt better than the yellow because the yellow was already exposed to the radiation after Nagasaki and Heroshima whilst the white wasn't, unless you count the tidepods

  12. Let your resident Arcane Wizard help you out here.

    The colour of anything is due its ability to absorb all other colours and reflect the one we see. This is due to the chemical structure of the material. By changing the amount of single and double bonds in a material then it will either reflect a higher or lower light frequency, The lower it is will "red shift" an object and the higher will "blue shift" an object.

    The best example are bruises. When we bruise ourselves we will first see a purple or deep red colour. This is due to the double bonds in Haemoglobin from the capillaries were have broken. It then goes green, yellow and then vanishes. This is due to Haeme breaks down into Bilirubin. it is the change in chemical structure and number of single and double bonds that changes the colour of molecule.

  13. Oh yh fill one of those bad boys with coffee creamer and gun cotton. I wonder how big a fireball that would make.

  14. Great How to video !
    youre definitely giving me some ideas about what i should do next on my channel!!!

  15. That fire eating book is a bit expensive even on sale. Contact Amazon and they can get the prices down

  16. How to "NOT" do it better…
    1- keep using drain cleaner/ stump remover or other dilute acids/lye & DO NOT purify from its of of the shelf concentrations, or buy industrial use pure nitric/ potash.
    2-keep using tap water.DO NOT use Reverse osmosis or distilled.
    3-keep using cosmetic ,bulk,& bleached cotton balls. DO NOT use pure cotton fill.
    4-let ot dry in the sun. DO NOT use a cold dehydrator.
    5- eyeball measurements are fine, as are basic ratios. DO NOT measure precisely by volume to insure proper nitrification.

  17. White has more phosphorus and yellow has more sulfur when chemical reactions occur there is more left behind with sulfer

  18. discoloration is from the contaminants in your homemade nitric acid and the remaining sulfuric acid, it reacts with organic matter and breaks it down to it's basic form i.e. carbon
    added:
    reason why the "white" burns better than the "yellow" is because the white has less contaminants from inhibiting it's combustion, hence why it leaves little to no residue.

    I'd recommend to get some good quality lab grade nitric acid and use that instead or distille the home made nitric acid, once again buying a lab grade is more cost effective and safer. that would be my recommendation

  19. I believe the discoloration is due to impurities in the chemicals you used. Using purer material and more consecutive washings will improve the color and burning of the cotton. You can wash the cotton after the nitrating part without affecting the material so just wash it until it is white 😀 sorry for the mistakes, english is not my mother tongue

  20. Idiots… Read up on how to do it correctly. Use better chemicals. .. Don't leave it so long, it takes 5 minutes to soak, then rinse.

  21. Real flash cotton that you can buy at a magic works much better and burns much faster. Maybe don't play with acid in your backyard?

  22. Good thing you add the "metric translation" because one metric cup is exactly 250ml so 4 would be 1l
    An "American cup" is allegedly 200ml so 4 of those would be 800ml.
    But I'm gonna guess that you're using "Canadian Cups" which, working backwards from 950ml comes to 237.5m
    That's such a randomly odd measure that I'm sure it was derived from some Native American measure

  23. Flash paper was sometimes used to contain gunpowder in cylinders to load into cannons it made them more reliable as you don’t have to worry about over filling the cannons

  24. Dude I love your subject content, I really do!! But when I watch your videos it's like I am listening to morning talk radio.

  25. This is a very easy reaction, basically half of a shake and bake minus the drugs lol. You just gotta keep it cold, doesn't seem bad at all. Unfortunately you have a lot of gunk because you didn't wash your regents I would have washed your reagents and isolated the acid better, the yellow is unwanted bind re and fill re that you did not know extract, extract first for a bit better guys

  26. nitric acid can actually make gloves catch on fire,pretty neat trick,not so neat when you're wearing them,sometimes gloves just aren't safer

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  28. Alright so im months late and sure people have explained it, but the yellow is the extra gunk from the drain cleaner and stump remover. It filters itself out from the rest of the important stuff, but as the cotton does come into contact with it at some point, it absorbs it as well and creates impure flash cotton

  29. Sorry guys, but your solution won't nitrate cellulose because you need nitric and sulfuric acid, there's no such reaction like H2SO4+2KNO3-> K2SO4 + 2HNO3 because in solution both acid and salt is in ionic state. Your nitrating solution isn't strong enough so you "flash cotton" is basically cotton mixed with crystalized KNO3 and K2SO4 (oxidisers) hence bigger burning speed (better oxygen ratio)

  30. im not a chemist, but I'm pretty positive that the white cotton was less compact as the yellow cotton, thus making it so that something less dense that has the same flamibility will burn faster because theres less stuff to burn, also why there is less residue, because the residue is the same density both white and yellow, so there is less in the white.

  31. The crusty stuff was probably impure nitrocotton. Half reacted or just not fully mixed stuff.

    As you know when you burn most junk, a bunch of black carbon is left over, which makes me think this.

    The floofier stuff is realistically fully reacted (or close to) nitro cotton.

  32. I've been watching your videos for a few days. I feel that I am probably on a watchlist of some sort now. Well done sirs.

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