How to Sew a Lace Hem using the Border

Many lace fabrics out there come with a beautiful
scalloped border instead of the traditional selvedge. Because lace doesn’t fray, you
have the option to use the lace design for the hemline instead of using traditional hemming
techniques. If your lace has a selvedge border that you
want to use, you can try to place your pattern pieces strategically on the fabric. Lace is
one of the few fabrics where it’s ok to break the grainline rule and pattern pieces
can be placed on the fabric how you like. But why this sounds like an easy solution,
it doesn’t necessarily always work out, either because you may not have enough fabric
to do this or the shaping of the pattern piece doesn’t allow for it. An example would be
a circle skirt pattern, like this one. This doesn’t mean that you still can’t utilize
the selvedge border, we just need to do it a different way. You can either fold up or cut off any hem
allowance from your pattern, because we won’t be creating a traditional hem. Cut out your
fabric pieces as normal without worrying about placing it on the selvedge border. Then cut off the edge of the selvedge border,
following the curvature of any scalloping. Pin the selvedge border on top of the cut
edge of your hemline, with some overlap. I would say about a ¼” to ½”. Both of
these fabrics are right side up. Do a zig zag stitch on the top edge of the
selvedge border, attaching the two fabrics together. On the wrong side of your hemline, you can
trim off the excess fabric with your scissors. If your lace does not have a finished border
that you can use, you can still use this same technique with a lace trim as seen here. Just
realize that your finished length could be extended by whatever the width of your trim
is so adjust accordingly on your fabric piece if you need to. When using this technique, you’ll probably
want to do it at the beginning of your garment construction rather than the end. If you’re
using a matching color thread, then creating a self hem border to your hemline will hardly
be noticeable and make your lace garment look even better. We hope you enjoyed this tutorial. Please
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