Knit My First From the Middle Rectangle Blanket

Knit My First From the Middle Rectangle Blanket

Welcome back to The Crochet Crowd, as well as my friends over at I’m your host Mikey. Today we are going to do a Rectangular Knit Blanket using Bernat Alize Blanket Easy Yarn. So what this is is the looping yarn, which I’ll show you in just a moment. And what we’re going to be doing is going in a complete rectangle. Starting from the very beginning here, and then growing outward. So I have a lot of information to share with you today. So I wrote a three page instructional thing that matches this particular tutorial. The question you will be, will how many loops do you start with in order to do a rectangle? So what I’ve done here on page number two, is that I have the starting loops and ball counts. So what we have, is that if you would like a child size, it’s seven loops and you use five balls, and etc. So all of that information has been provided to you. If you’d like to customize it, I also provided my formula here, so that you can get the right number of loops, in order to start. The number of loops that you go across initially the first time will determine how it sizes up in the end. I’ve also given other helpful tips that are in this tutorial.On what happens if you accidentally leave a loop behind. How to fix it without taking apart your work. And then, also if you’re going to notice that maybe you accidentally leave a twist in here, you can actually go all the way back down to the twist, and then untwist it and then bring it all the way back, without having to take apart all your work. So that’s gonna be all covered in today’s tutorial, and let me just talk to you a little bit more about this design, and uh, we’re gonna get going from there. So in this tutorial we’re gonna start off with a foundation loop, and you’re going to notice that we’re going to be using two loops, to go into one, uh once it comes all the way around. You’ll see that in here in the tutorial. The first time around is always different from the rest of them. The rest of them are always the same. The first one we have to concentrate on doing it right. Now originally I wanted to have every round done the same way, but a problem is, if you do it every round the same way, especially for the beginning, you’ll end up with two massive holes.One right here and right here. So the starting foundation is different from the rest of them, in order to keep that looking compact. You’re also gonna notice that this yarn is nice and a fluffy. It’s also very light. You’re going to notice that you cannot see through this project. So it’s not a typical uh, other kind of brand that you may see out there. So when you’re using all this, you’re gonna notice it’s nice and dense, but without the weight. So what I’m gonna do in today’s tutorial is that we have some goals. So we’re gonna get you started. I’m gonna show you how to untwist the twist. I’m gonna show you how, what to do if you accidentally leave the loop behind, and then I’m gonna show you how to do a bind off. So once I get you started, I’m going to just have you go around, and then at the end of the, of the tutorial I’m gonna be using the square video that I have already done, because all of that information is exactly the same. So it’s just a matter of getting yourself started, and then you can enjoy this project all the more. So without, enough chitter-chatter, let’s get at-her. Let’s start off with the very beginning of this project. So let’s just cover the loops, just to say that I set it live on camera. So what we have is the child and wheelchair size. You’ll start off with seven loops at the very beginning, and that becomes your foundation. For the throw size, that is adult, and basically decor, you know when you’re lying on the couch watching a movie kind of idea. You want nine loops. If you would like a full size twin blanket, you want 52 loops as your foundation, because it’s almost double the width of when, because of the sizing of the bed. And for queen-size, people are gonna ask me, do a square version of that, and it’s 84 inches by 84. So this is not the right video for you to do that one. So without further ado, let’s get started. No hooks. No needles, and let’s use our fingers, and play. So we’re gonna start off, and I’m gonna say that I want eight chains to be completely empty. So what I want to do, is that I want to put my stitch marker on the first one, and I want to count 8. So 1 2 3 4 5 6 7 & 8. So 8, is where I want to start. So I want to put another stitch marker there. So this shows me, this is the center point of my rectangle. So now that I have my ends marked, stitch markers. I want you to switch these positions. So because I’m right-handed, I’m always gonna go counterclockwise. If you’re left-handed, you’re going to leave it just like you see it here. Okay, so what I want to do is to switch it, positions. Because what I want to do, because I’m right-handed, I want this yarn always coming in from the left hand side, feeding into the project. So as I rotate this rectangle, I’m always going to go in the same direction. So, to get started in this concept, I want you to start with the second loop in. So we ignored the one with a clothespin, and go to the second, and grab the next available loop, and just feed it from the behind, pulling up forward. And I want to do that for each one of these loops. If you’re familiar with EZ Knitting, then, this is a really cool concept, and you already know what you’re doing. So you’re going across as if it’s a regular row. But what we’re gonna do, is that when we get to the end of the row, we’re gonna turn, around, and we’re gonna be using the same row that I’m currently in, once again to go down the other side. So just going right to the end. Now originally I did these without the stitch markers, and it was so much harder. So I want to make it easier for you, and also easier for me to teach it. So once you get it all the way, just pull up these loops so that they’re nice and organized. And the next one, here, is the corner. So to do the corners, you’re always, whenever there’s a stitch marker or a clothespin, you’re always gonna put three loops. So stack the loops. So one, two and three. Now you could stack, so that it’s one, two, three. It doesn’t matter. It’s whatever you find easier. I just find it’s easier to stack one, two, three. Just like that. So the next one that’s available, release this stitch marker, and put the next loop, all three of those, through that front one. But before you let it go, just kinda pull on it a little bit, and you’re gonna notice that it’s going to stay in a certain order. It’s always gonna be one, two and three. I want you to move the stitch marker to the first one. This is not like the square, where the middle one, here, in this round is your corner. Okay, and then I want you to put in the third one, another clothespin . These are your new corners. And I want you to rotate the project, like so. And get that next loop ready, so that you can understand this concept. So because I now need to go back. I haven’t gone all the way around. I wanna pay attention to these stitch markers. So this is a corner. This is a side, and corner. So I want to come to the one that is, is down the middle. And what I’m gonna do, is that I’m gonna take the next available one, and I’m gonna feed it through the same loop that this one came through. So just coming up, and just under uh, underside of it, and just feeding it through that first loop, and pull it towards the top. Okay, so there’s technically two loops, coming out of one, here in the middle, and what I want to do, is I want to do that all the way down. So just grab the next one. I know it’s kind of hard to see, but it’s there, and it might be easier for you to see in person. Just feed it so that they’re both coming through the same loop. Now, when I did the prototype, I changed the color so I could see it. Just to understand my concept a little bit easier, and I’m just sharing that middle, loop with two. Later on in this video, I’m going to show you how, if you have a twist in your loops, and they’re not twisting right. I can show you how to fix it without having to take apart your project too. And I’m also going to show you just in case you drop your loops, and how to fix that as well. So you’re coming all the way down, feeding, the loops, through the same loop. It’s the only time you’re gonna do that. You have to get yourself started in the center of your rectangle. So you’re coming up to the very end. So here we’ve got it, and the next one is a stitch marker. So whenever you have a stitch marker. Let me back with the camera a little bit here, and what you’re going to notice, whenever there’s a stitch marker, there’s always going to be three. So the next three available to stack them. So one, two and three. Get that one the stitch marker released, feed it back to the front, and then open it up. Okay, and they stay in a certain order. So because this is a rectangle, and it’s the first time around, put a stitch marker on the first, on the first one of the three, and move this other stitch marker to the third one, leaving the one in the middle empty. This is the only time that you’re going to consider it like that. From now going forward, every time there’s a stitch marker and we’re going to move it, will always move it to the middle one of the three. But I won’t complicate you at yet. So rotate your project, and now we’re gonna continue, back. So we’re gonna go in a continuous revolution around. So there’s actually no ending to this. So at the very end of the project when you run out of yarn, you just bind off, and it still looks good. So, just with your next loop that’s available to you, just feed them. So every loop just gets one now, going all the way across. So the hard work, technically has been done. And all you’re just looking for, is the loops in order. So the next loop is a stitch marker. Okay, so whenever there’s a stitch marker, there will always be three. So I’m going to release it first, and then stack three. So one, two and three. And then that one, that had the stitch marker, put in three. So now going forward, the middle one of the three. So just splay it open. So the one, two and three. It’s always going to be the middle one. It’ll always be the second one going forward from this point onward. Rotate your project a little bit. Now you do have, your item here. So don’t confuse that these loops, that are going to your yarn strand, are part of your project. So make sure that every loop gets something. If you’re going to drop a loop, it’ll always be on a corner, from my experience. So the next one here, is a stitch marker. So just let’s release it. Okay, and then stack it. So one, two and three. Because it’s a stitch marker, it’ll always have three. And pull three through, and open it, and you have the three. So one, two and three. And it’s always going to be the second one now going forward, and rotate your project. So down the long sections here, you’re going to notice that you’ll change the yarn, like you’ll change these, a lot less, therefore you’ll speed up. Okay, so working your way down. So, all you just need to do now, is go in a continuous revolution, till you get to the size that you would like to go. A baby blanket in the square, two balls would take you 32 by 32. I’m not sure the counts for doing different sizes of blankets at this point. This, at this time it’s just concept, but if somebody can get back to me on that, that would be super awesome. And you’re gonna go all the way to the end. And then, the end, let’s just rotate. I’m just gonna move out the camera a little bit further. So, because there’s a stitch marker, stack it. So one, two and three. Do you see how important those stitch markers are? It just allows you to keep in track, and then once you get it all three in there, just splay it open, and it’s always the middle one, of the three. And then just work your way across. Now because it’s going across at this particular point, you will see that there is another loop in there. So just look for it. So the ones that are by themselves, those are part of the three. So you’re thinking they’re out of place, but they’re not. So every time that you do a corner, you’ll always have two that are standing on its own, because they’re getting ready for the next round to be in position. So the next one is a stitch marker. So stack in three. So one, two and three, and so on. So I know this is long-winded. The concept is neat. I came up with it on the airplane, and I tried it at home. And it works like a gem, and it can be really quite awesome. So all you just need to do, is just go. So what I’m going to do now, is that I’m gonna take you to the square video . I’m going to show you how to correct it, just in case you’re having any twists. I’m going to show you how to correct, just in case you leave any loops in behind the work, that you should have picked up. I’m gonna show you how to correct that, without having to take it all apart. I’m also going to show you how to fasten off, and weave in your ends. So hopefully you enjoy this concept, and I’m gonna fast forward you to that video now. Please enjoy, and we’ll talk to you again real soon. So let’s review on how to fix a twist. So for example, what you’re seeing here everything is perfect and everything is looking aligned. Do you see how the two follow up all the way to the top of the loop? Now if there was a twist to it. it would not look the same. So let’s put a twist in here, and let me show you how to fix that. So I’m back, and I officially put in a twist here. So you can see that it doesn’t kinda look right, and you can happen to see this in a project, if you’re working along. So instead of taking everything apart, you can work straight down. So let me show you how to get there. So all you just need to do, is just take this loop, and just follow it straight up the path, and the nice thing about this you can do this at any point in this project. And you just want to take all the loops out, that exist, to get to that twist. So here is the twisted one right here. So what you want to do is untwist it, and pull it out, so it’s not twisted, and then you’re just going to take the strand, and reapply it back up to the top. That’s how easy that is. So, instead of having to take apart all you work, you can just simply just go back to where it was, and just bring it back to conclusion. So it’s the same, all the way up. So what happens if you have a particular loop that you skipped? Let’s talk about that next. So when I turned it over, I noticed that I left this loop. So this is not intentional for the tutorial reason, I just happen to do that. Anytime that I did do that though, I ended up doing that close to a corner. So I noticed that. So what, you have to turn this around once in a while. Like pretty, just double check, and make sure you get all the loops. Now, instead of frogging it to catch that loop, what I can do, is just kind of look at it and see, where does this line up to go back up to the top. So you notice that it’s facing in that direction. So I noticed that I have to go this way. So if it was facing this direction, naturally then I would go this direction. So what I want to do, is just look at where I’m gonna follow. So just follow it straight up, and start releasing out the loops, all the way to that level. I find it easier just to look at it from the front side, to undo the loops. Just keeping an eye on where it’s gonna go, on the back side. So just going all the way down to where it is. So now that I’m all the way down. Okay, so here’s where accidentally skipped it. So what I wanna do, is put the two together just like normal. So just put it together. You’re gonna treat them as one. So just turning it back over, push it too, to the front side. Okay keep it together, and now just redo your stitches, Using them both. So put this next one through both, and then put the next one through the next, and all the way back to the top. So now that I’m on the top. I can turn it over. My missing loop is now gone, and let’s turn it around, and look at the front side. Okay, do you see where it is? It’s right around here, somewhere. So it may look a little askew, but it’s better than leaving an exposed loop, in behind. And actually it looks pretty awesome, once you to start shaping everything out, and it’s a great way to cheat the system without having a frog your work. So as we begin to do the bind off, I want you to just take a look at your project. Make sure that there’s no twisting or mistakes in it, because now that we’re gonna do the bind off, is that it’s gonna be permanently sealed in a position. So make sure you do that first, and then I’m gonna show you how to do the bind off next. What I’ve done is, that I’ve gone through two balls, and I’m just going to leave the last section. I don’t want to turn the corner here, because I don’t have enough yarn to get around the corner. So what I’m going to do, is that I’m going to open up these loops. So let’s just zoom in here, and show you how that’s done. So when I open them up, I want to put my scissors, and turn it upside down, so it looks like horseshoes, that are upside down. And if I glide in my scissors really carefully, I can catch the string that forms the loop. So it doesn’t break the yarn at all. It just breaks the loop, and what I want to do is open up these final, and I wanna use this as my final strand. If you were going to do it, you just need a minimum of three loops, but because I didn’t want to turn the corner for the last one, and it’s just a personal preference. It just, I’m opening up everything that was left. So now that that’s open, I wanna start my binding off. So what you want to do, is you wanna work in the direction that is opposite to how you were putting it together. So for myself, being right-handed, I worked in a counterclockwise, uh position. If you’re left-handed, you were working in a clockwise. So because I’m right-handed, I’m going to go total of clockwise. Okay so I was, I was knitting counterclockwise. I’m gonna bind off clockwise, and then left it’s the opposite. So take the last one that you did, and then take the new one, and just form it up on the inside like this. Okay so inside the loop, and bend it over. Okay, and then grab the next one, and I’m working counterclockwise because I sorry, I’m working clockwise, because I’m right-handed. And all I’m just going to do, is that I’m going to work all the way around, putting the loops into each other. And now in the corners, I’m gonna get there just a moment, and I’ll show you what I’m going to do with that. There’s nothing special there. So I’m working my way to the corner. I still have my stitch marker in place with my clothes pin, and all I wanna do is just be conscious of that, and make sure that I get all of the loops when I’m turning the corner. So we’re not adding anything to the corners any longer. We’re just simply just gonna go around the corner. So you can remove this off. Make sure you expose all of your loops. You’re gonna have three that are kind of untouched, and you’re gonna work those around, feeding them into each other. So that gives you the extra that you need, in order to turn a corner properly. Okay, and then continue that around, and that’s it. So go all the way around, and I’ll see you at the end of this round, and I’ll show you how to finish off. So I’m coming back to where I had started, and I’ve gone all the way around doing my bind off. And, just making sure and getting everything in, my last section here, and my last loop. Okay, so you’re noticing that you’ve got a loop left over. So what you have to do, is that you have to get a tapestry needle,. And one that will fit this yarn. This is nice and thick, so you need a nice thick um, needle. I can feel the…………… So just slide the yarn, into the tapestry needle, and what I wantcha to do, is capture that loop. Okay, and then pull it close. Okay and then sinking in, underneath the, the stitch work, capture it in. It’s nice yarn to be able to hide, stuff, and then going in the other direction. So the idea is to get this to go back and forth inside the stitch work. You gotta go in a slightly different path each time, to capture it in. So it will not fall out on you. And you can pull on it, and it’s good to go. So then that knot, is done. So, what I want to do, is that I want to go back through the afghan, or the blanket, and I have joined yarns. So I just happen to turn over and happens to be right there. So this is where it’s been tied, So what you want to do, is you want to take that same tapestry needle, and you want to stay towards the back of the project. And just because my needles so long, I want to sink it into my work first. Okay, and then just put the end, or just do one at a time. It’s just easier. Put the end through. And what you wanna do, is you wanna drag it through that stitch work. You could have done this as you went as well. It does, you don’t have to necessarily wait to the end. Okay, so I did one, and the other one is right there. So again I wanna just go in the other direction with the other one. Just sinking it in. Try not hit in that front side of the project. Just stay towards the back, because then you won’t mess with the look of it. It’s really quite thick yarn. So just pull things through. I’m gonna, I’m gonna have a long, you’re going to have a longer strand, because by the time I gave you the advice, you would of had a longer strand, So once you have it pulled through, you’re gonna trim and trim. Ultimately if you can go back and forth three times, it hides it didn’t even better, and therefore your project is good to go.

6 thoughts on “Knit My First From the Middle Rectangle Blanket

  1. Sorry Mikey but this yarn is not for me. Too much finger using. My fingers get cramps. Maybe I'm trying to hard. But a hookand yarn is best for my hands. As always thanks for sharing. Much Love,Peace and Blessings to you ❣

  2. This yarn is pretty tremendously expensive, if you have to have it shipped, like I do, the price is actually double. Ridiculous.

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