Knitting Help – Comparing Increases

Knitting Help – Comparing Increases

In this video, we’re going to compare different
increases, three increases side by side. Last week I released a video comparing decreases,
and I’ll give you a link here to that video, the sister video to this one. In this one,
we’re looking at different increases and substituting increases a little bit more complicated than
decreases, so we’ll look at them. You can see what they look like and I’ll explain how
they substitute for each other. As I said in last weeks video, a lot of older patterns
won’t give you specific instructions for what increases to use. It’ll just say increase,
and it’s sort of knitter’s choice at that point. Different increases look different
and work different, and so understanding them side by side, I think will be helpful when
you’re making these decisions. First up, I want to give you a quick run through
of how each of these are worked, and in the video description below, I will give you links
to videos I have that slowly demonstrate each one of these. I’m just going to give you a
little reminder here of how they’re worked, and I’ll give you links to slower demonstrations.
Let’s go and take a look. I’m going to run through the three increases with you here.
The first one is the most simple of them all. I’m just going to knit a few stitches. The
first one is yarn-over, and that’s just, when you’re knitting, pulling the yarn forward
and back, and draping it over the right needle. It ends up giving you a hole on the work and
it’s not a real stitch. If you are a continental knitter, a normal continental knitter, you’ll
want to just wrap the right needle and maybe hold on to that with the index finger of your
right hand as you continue knitting. The next one is KFB, which is knit front back.
You work a normal knit stitch but don’t pull the old stitch off the left needle. Swing
the tip of the needle around to the back loop of the stitch and knit, and you’ve just made
two stitches out of one. I’ll show you that one more time. Normal knit stitch, swing the
needle around, work in the back loop of the stitch. The next one is make one right. You
pull up the loop between two stitches, and put it up on the left needle from back to
front, and then you knit that stitch normally, and you’ve just created a stitch between two
stitches. Pull up that bar between two stitches, put it on the left needle from back to front
and knit it. That was make one right, and then make one left, you pull up that bar and
put it on the left needle from front to back, and then knit it through the back loop. Pull
up that bar, front to back, and then knit it through the back loop. Now that we have an understanding on how those
stitches are worked, I’ll show you the comparison in the same order that I just talked about
them. First here we have yarn-overs. What I’ve done here is I’ve worked yarn-over knit
two yarn-over, and the wrong side of the work I just worked knit to knits and pearl to pearls.
So this is every other row increases with yarn-overs, and you can see this is definitely
a decorative increase. The holes are very pronounced. It’s not the sort of thing you
want to hide the increases, this is probably not the way to do it. But I think it looks
great, especially on raglan sweaters, on Summer, Spring/Summer weight raglan sweaters. I think
that looks great. In here we have the KFBs, knit front back. Something you’ll notice with
the KFBs is we end up with these little pearl bumps. The first part of the stitch looks
like a regular knit stitch and the second when you’re knitting through the back loop
of the stitch, it leaves these little pearl bumps. I think they look good, mirrored like
this. I like the way it looks, so I’ve actually used in patterns several times before. In this, I did KFB, knit two, KFB. That’s
what that looks like. For the most invisible increases we have the make ones. Again I increased
every other row, the wrong side is just knit to knits and pearl to pearls. I did make one
right, knit two, and make one left. This has not been blocked, but you can imagine after
blocking that this ends up being quite invisible, and you actually have to look for it even
before blocking. The reason that it’s important, it’s a little more difficult to substitute
increases one for the other, is because yarn-overs and make one stitches are worked between stitches
and don’t actually use up a stitch to be made. KFBs actually use up a stitch. So it’s easy
to substitute make ones and yarn-overs, no problem. You don’t have to change anything
with your pattern, but if you want to use KFB stitches instead of one of these two,
your pattern might say something like knit ten yarn-over, or knit ten make one right.
If you want to substitute KFBs for that, it’s going to be knit nine, KFB, because you actually
use up a stitch to make these. I’ve given you a really simple concept in how that is
and you have to think through it, with any given pattern that you’re working on where
you want to use a different increase. There are other increases that like knit one and
yarn-over, like knit one below, or other lifted increases where they use the stitches in between
and KFB actually uses a stitch. I was about to go on and on there. The point
is that you want to think about the kind of increase it is and how it’s going to affect
the pattern, and then think about that whole pattern and how you want the increases to
line up, when you start doing substitutions like that. Anyway, I hope this helps with
comparing different increases. Good luck!

81 thoughts on “Knitting Help – Comparing Increases

  1. Thank you for this very helpful video tutorial. I found this very informative, as was the decrease video you posted last week.

    I was wondering if you were planning on producing a video which matched increases and decreases? For instance, if I were making a blanket using M1L and M1R as the increases, which decrease method would you pair with it? Being a new knitter the answer is not obvious to me and I would appreciate the insight of an experienced and talented knitter such as yourself.


  2. Thanks for this video on increases, and for the companion video on decreases. Makes things wonderfully clear and do-able. Increases 🙂 my stitch toolbox and greatly helps my understanding of patterns. Once again, great instructional videos, helpful indeed. Thanks Staci.

  3. Thanks a lot for this great and helpful video! I actually discussed different increases about a week ago with a knitting friend and am now thankful to show her this as an explanation what left and right increases are. 
    As a continental knitter I often find it difficult to follow some more complex stitches you demonstrate because I'm not really familiar with the english knitting. So it would be great if you could show a continental version of the more complicated things you demonstrate in the future.

  4. You're freaking awsome!! Your videos are like having a best friend teach you. So clear as easy to understand. Thank you so very much!!

  5. Super helpful once again, Staci! Thanks so much!  
    And those needles attached to your comparison swatch are gorgeous. 😀

  6. love all your tutorials.i am from India every thursday will be waiting for your videos.pls let me know how to fix a price for hand knitted items.

  7. you should really do two videos per week – some of your videos are way to short and not "real" videos to wait one week for them 🙁

  8. Hello Staci, Thank you so much for all the clear and concise videos that you post and the techniques you highlight.  Interesting and fun stuff!

  9. Once again, clear and concise..
    Also, I know you have told folks before, but I cannot find the info.
    The little wooded "pin" that you are using to point with.. where could I find some like that? Probably also would need the real name.. haha.. Thanks!

  10. Hey Staci – have you seen this pattern for a draped sweater by The Purl Bee – I think it would make a great video tutorial here's the link

  11. Just the video I needed for a project I'm working on.  Very well done, with clear descriptions and a great demonstration.  Thanks.

  12. Increases and video on decreases are absolutely helpful to me, a knitter stuck between advanced beginner and intermediate level. Thank you.

  13. I am so gratefull for your kind, clear, and complete explanations. My knitting as a beginner is constantly improved by your advises. Be proud: you make me very happy and relaxed about a thing I used to fear ;}

  14. My Gosh! I have been doing the Make one left and right very wrong all this time.. lol.. I would pick up a stitch in between the stitches and always made a gap.. Thank you sooo much for clarifying this for me.. 🙂

  15. I have an old pattern with the title being " Fan-Stitch Shawl"; it is a baby blanket. I have knitted 100 rows and am now ready for the next row and it states to (k 4, * inc 1 st in next st, k 9. Repeat from * across, ending with inc 1 st in next st, k5–place a marker to indicate right side of work (110 sts). My question is which type of increase should I use? The next row is the pattern row.

  16. Hello Staci, Do you have a written pattern for your swatches. I would like to make one for reference for increases and decreases.

  17. Staci, could you some time give a demonstration of how a M1L and a M1R look when paired on different sides of the fabric? For instance a M1L on the right hand side and an M1R on the left hand side compared to M1L on the left and M1R on the right.

  18. Thank you for the tutorials, they are super helpful to a beginner like me who has taken on a bigger project that I was ready for! (thankfully the sweater is for my dog who doesn't care what it looks like!). I am assuming that lifted increases are similar to kfb in that you need to account for the stitch used in the pattern? The pattern I am using is very simple, just says increase on both ends of the knit rows, so I have been working the increases 1 from the edge… again the puppy isn't too concerned how it looks but is that the best place to add the increase? thanks

  19. Have you heard if the twisted yarn-over increase? It ends up looking similar to the Make 1 increase but is a bit more invisible because it doesn't mess with the tension of the surrounding stitches as much. It has both left and right-leaning versions and is worked in a similar way to Make 1 increases, but it takes two rows to complete rather than just one.

  20. Great instructions, easy to follow too. I've been knitting for around 10 years, but have only ever been brave enough to make scarves, bags etc & have always been afraid of other more complex stitches & patterns. Not now. Your clear & concise instructions have made it possible for me to make sweaters & other clothes for my grandsons. I will definitely be following you on you tube for all my knitting tips. Many thanks x

  21. Great video. Spent half an hour looking for best, most invisible increase. Should've known Staci would have the best info. Thanks!

  22. How do you M1 in YO? Thank you for sharing your expertise 🌹🌹🌹 Eyelet row (RS) K1, P1, K1, YO, K2tog, P1, K1 rep from to last 3 sts, YO, K2tog , P1 INCREASE row (WS) K2(10) , *M1, K1; rep from * to last 10 sts, pm beg with a P1 rib to end ….. <–this is the written pattern . Thank you ❤️❤️❤️

  23. Thanks for the quick response, so instance… Thank you so much❤️ Judy Graham and you, I respected in the World of knitting. Love and God bless you all in the Name of Our Lord Jesus Christ. Amen❤️ A million thanks 💯💯💯💯💯💯💯

  24. i love watching this lady's vids because she is so serious about what she is doing and explains everything so well.

  25. Thank you for this video, Staci. I am trying to wrap my head around the theory of knitting and wonder if the increase you choose (particularly m1r, m1l) depends on the direction you're working (i.e. if a garment is worked top down vs. bottom up)?

  26. When a pattern says increase each end of next and every following fourth row do you count the increase row as row one then increase in fourth or do u increase then knit four and increase in fourth hope this is clear ty for it help in advance

  27. I just shared this with a friend of mine who's starting to branch out her knitting skills, because you show it so more clearly that I could!

  28. This is possibly the most helpful video. I came across a pattern and as a beginner in knitting I was wondering what the differences were and how it looks in comparison. This just cleared everything up. Thank you

  29. I like so much your videos!! They are great!!! ☺ Is it possible to create those little holes in decreases?

  30. I was at the Goodwill Thrift store & I found a package of knitting needles that r of different sizes. They r the 1's that have the part that has the plastic cable that can interchange with each other. I paid $2.99 minus my senior discount. I think that it's everything. It came with the case.

  31. This is such a useful video! May I ask what kind of increase is best if a pattern says to increase one stitch at the end of each row (for widening jumper/sweater sleeves for example)?

  32. Yarn Over 1:21
    KFB 1:50
    M1R 2:15
    M1L 2:44

    IMHO, this video is MUCH better for the Make Ones as your filming was better quality and much closer up. So Just watch here a few times.

  33. A toddler sweater states: inc,k1, slip m ( marker), k1, inc1. I’m not sure what method or what stitch to “ inc”. Could you possibly give me some ideas? Thank you.

  34. when increasing a sleeve by one stitch for example,does adding that stitch on the sides or in the middle make a difference?which is best?great channel,i subscribed

  35. I'm left handed so in your swatch using M1L and M1R, would I do M1L k2 M1R or like you do the M1R k2 M1L…. what order would come out right for the increases in a top down neck line?

  36. Another interesting increase I've seen (in the round) is a yarn over, but then it is knit through the back loop on the second round. No hole!

  37. Do you have any video teaching 2 or 3 stitches decrease or increase on both side? If not, can you make one or show me in the reply? Thanks

  38. Many thanks for publishing a clear concise guide. I don't knit often enough to keep these stitches in my head. Appreciate being able to look them up when I need them!

  39. Thank you for this…I am doing kfb on a raglan sweater and wondered if those bumps were something I was doing wrong..

  40. Does it matter if you use knit front back, along with knit back front? (KFB, KBF, if there is even any such thing?)

    Meaning do they need to be mirrored to look nice?

  41. It was so helpful that you talked about which increase “use” a stitch and which don’t. I’d never thought about this or it’s impact on a pattern before.

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