Lace Dress – McCall’s Pattern 6695


Welcome to Professor Pincushion. In this tutorial,
we are going to be making McCall’s 6695. We are going to be focusing on view A which
is this dress in this picture, but if you decide to do view B, you can also follow along
most of the steps with us. The first thing that you want to check is to make sure you
have the correct size and the size is listed right here on the side of the envelope. You’re
just going to make sure that you find the grouping that has your size. Let’s take a
look at the dress that we are going to be making and see a quick example. Dress A is lined one shoulder dress with the
lace eyelet overlay. It has elastic around the neckline and waist plus a side invisible
zipper. This lovely party dress also has pockets and plenty of pleats to give it a flared skirt.
Let’s go ahead now and take a look at the back of the pattern envelope. If you are unsure of your size you can always
consult the body measurement chart located on the top flap of the pattern envelope. We
can see it right here, it says body measurements. Now we have the measurements all listed here
and they are listed in inches, this top half here, not this bottom half, this is in centimeters.
And you’re going to see bust, waist and hip, so what you’re going to do is find your circumference
of each of these areas and you are going to line them up the best you can in a column. So the number that’s on top of that column
that best suits you, that is going to be your size. So for me, my particular one, I’m going
to line it all up and I’m going to end up being a size 12. So once you have this number
you are definitely going to remember it because this is going to help decide not only what
pattern we cut out, but also how much fabric we are going to need. Turning over to the
back of the envelope, the first thing I like to look at is, what is the suggested
fabric for this dress and then we have this box right here and they are telling us what
kind of fabric that they suggest that we use in order to make this garment. So first it needs to be a medium weight woven
fabrics and you will see here we have A, B and then C and D. This is based on the view
that you are doing, so if I’m doing dress A, I don’t have to worry about what’s under
C and D, I just have to look here. So for A, B they suggest that we use eyelet or lace
because this is going to have an overlay. Also with B, you would need a single-edge
scalloped lace because of the ruffle. And then you can also see A and B here because
this is in regards to the lining. So these are the fabrics that suggest the use for lining
the dress. Also we have our notions, so A, B, C and D, this means that it does’nt matter
what dress you are making, everybody is going to need a 12 to 14 inch invisible zipper.
For an A and B, we also need elastic and this is the width of the elastic, 3/8ths of an
inch and you’re going to need 2 and 3/8ths yards of it. After we have our fabric we can now figure
out how much we are going to need, so you are going to look at the box that has your
view. Now remember I’m doing A, so I’m only going to be looking for the A’s and I have
it right here, 1, 2, 3. Now for this particular dress, you’re actually going to be utilizing
two different lace overlays. So they have this one which is going to be the main lace
and then you have a contrasting color which is going to be the contrasting overlay and
then we have our lining down here. Now remember when I said you need to remember
your size, this is when it’s really going to come in handy, so if I am doing size 12,
everything below size 12 is going to relate to me. So for me my fabric I am picking out
for my first lace overlay, my main fabric depending on if you’re doing 45 inch with
fabric or 60 inch then you’re going to go into that row. So you need to look at your
fabric with which is on the end of your fabric row and it will tell you if, it’s 45 inches
or 60 inches in width. Mine is 45, so I’m just going to go across this row, until I
hit the 12 and then it’s going to tell me how much fabric I need out of my main lace
overlay. Then I’m going to do the same thing for my
contrasting color. So again, mine was 45 inches. I go across till I hit my size 12 and then
I find out, okay so I need, if I’m doing red and cream, my contrasting out of my red
lace, I’m going to need 1 and 3/4 out of my cream lace, I am going to need 1 and 1/8th,
then we look to lining. Since I am not doing B, I can skip B. And I’m going to go, again
my lining fabric is 45 inches in width, go across to my size and I’m going to need 2.5
yards of my lining. Pull out your pattern directions and at the
top of page one, you are going to see an illustration like this, so these are all the views that
are contained within this envelope. We are going to be doing A and this is the front
and the back and if we just look underneath this, you’re going to see this diagram here.
So these are all the pattern pieces that are located inside our envelope in order to make
these dresses. If you look into each of these shapes, you’re
going to see a number, this is the pattern piece number. Underneath that there are letters.
If there are no letters like with number two that means this piece is for all views. So
it doesn’t matter what dress you are making, you are going to be needing number two here.
But you could see with number one, this is A, B so if you are doing view A or B you are
definitely going to need one. Number nine is the C, D. So since I’m not doing C or
D, I don’t need to cut out piece number nine. 12 over here has A, B and then C, D. The line
where A, B sits, that is where you would cut for the A, B dress because it’s a shorter
dress, but C, D also uses piece 12, you’re just going to cut on the second line down
here because it’s going to be a longer skirt on this dress. But if you’re unsure, you
can also look down here, this is a listing and these numbers here correspond to the numbers
that are listed on this pattern piece and behind each pattern, again you’re going to
have the letter. So usually what I do is I just make a little
check next to it. If it has my letter which is going to A, B or if it’s like number two
and it does not say because again that’s for all views. So once you have the numbers
that are going to be your pattern pieces, you’re going to go ahead and pull out the
tissue paper and make sure that you cut out your correct pieces. Here is an example of one of the pattern pieces,
so remember I said that all the pattern pieces had numbers, well this is our number right
here, number 15. So if you needed to cut out number 15, this is how you know you’re cutting
out the right one. Also underneath it you can see it has all the views listed, so it doesn’t
matter what dress you’re going to need to cut out 15. And also it labels what exactly
it is. This is the skirt left back. Now you need to make sure that you are cutting out
the right size and if you look over here, you see 8, 10, 12, 14, 16. These are the different
sizes and it has a arrow pointing up to the line that you need to cut out for your size. So if for example I’m doing size 10, it’s
going to follow those arrow up and I’m going to cut on this line right here, I’m cutting
everything else off. Now if it’s a solid line like right here and it doesn’t have
all these different options, that means it’s for all sizes. You’re going to cut along
that line, no matter what. Now you will see here, I have a single notch and a double notch
and I cut outward for this to indicate that I have a notch here. So for the single notch,
I just do a little triangle here and then for my double notch, I do bigger triangle
and then I cut off the end. You can do it anyway you want, you can cut
inward if you want or you can cut outward like me. I just do this because it’s very
important that we are matching our pieces together, that we know where exactly our notches
are. So this is very important, but once you have all your pattern pieces cut out, we can
then start placing it on the fabric. When you’re ready to start cutting out your fabric
pieces, you are then going to want to reference the cutting layouts which we can see, this
is this area right here and we have this little guide right here. So if it’s white, we are looking at the right
side of the pattern piece which you can see right here. This pattern piece is all white
except for the number in the middle, that means that when it’s laid down on the table,
the printed side is facing up towards you. So if it’s polka dot, it’s the wrong side
of the pattern, so that means the pattern is flipped down towards the table. Now solid
means that we are looking at the right side of the fabric and then white is going to be
the wrong side of the fabric. So right here, all we are doing is looking
at the right side of the fabric and the pattern pieces are all faced right side up. You’re
going to make sure that you are looking at the right view. Again here is dress A, B,
so if you are doing one of these, then these are the layouts that we are going to use.
Now you will notice for this one, now this is for the main lace fabric. We have this
setup and this setup all on the same box. The difference is this is for 45 inch width
and this is for 60 inch width. So depending on the width of the fabric, this is the map
that you’re going to use. So if I am using 45, I’m going to look at this and I can ignore
this right here. So out of my main lace fabric, I need to cut out pattern piece 12, 1, 14
and 3. Now what you do need to make sure is that you open up the fabric, this is selvage,
selvage. That’s going to be the end of the fabric and end of the fabric. So it’s all laid out, one single layer, it’s
not folded and you are cutting out each piece one time, you only need one of each. So I
lay it up in a manner just like this and then I pin my pattern piece, all the way around,
so that the pins are parallel with the edge of the pattern and then you can go ahead and
cut out your pieces of your main lace fabric. Now if I just move this down, just over here,
now this is contrast A, so this is going to be the contrasting lace. So for this one,
if I’m using my red lace, this one I’m going to be using my cream lace. So you have a similar type of setup 45, 60
but then you see 60 again down here. The difference is, is the sizes, so if you are doing size
8 through 18, you are going to have this kind of a setup and if you’re doing 20 to 24,
then you would be using this. But I’m doing 45, so again I’m going to be looking at this
and I’m going to be cutting out, out of my contrasting lace 15, 13, 4 and 2 and again
the fabric is single layer opened up, no folds. I am laying out all my pieces with the print
side facing up, so everything is right side up and go ahead and cut those out. And then lastly our lining, so the lining
for A and B and for this one, there is a lot because we are basically cutting everything
out again. So you’re going have to remove your pattern pieces that you cut out from
your lace because you’re going to have to redo them and cut them out of the lining fabric.
And you can see all of them are listed here and it’s also listed up here. So they have
45, 45 and again the difference is the size. So this is 8 through 12 and this is sizes
14 through 24. Now there are some additions here which you
can see five and 8 and also 16. Now 16 is the pockets, we need four pieces out of this
one pattern piece and you can see here is white and here is dotted. So what they do
want you to do is, you cut out piece 16, then you flip it over and cut out the mirror of
16. And again, it’s not folded, the fabric is not folded, it’s just lined, single layer,
flat and you’re going to go ahead and cut out 16 twice and then cut it out again, so
you end up with 4, 16. Before you remove your pattern pieces from
your fabric, the very last thing we need to do before we start sewing this, is we need
to transfer the marks from our pattern to our fabric. So you can see I have circles,
I have dots; I have pleats on this particular pattern piece. Now if your lace has a delicate
design which makes it difficult to mark, you can go ahead and make all your marks on the
lining instead of the lace. It’s either way, you don’t have to do the lining and the lace,
you can do the lace or you can do the lining whatever is going to be easier for you. So all I have to do is I have to find the
marks that have my size next to it. So you can see 8, 10, 12, 14, so I would just have
to do 12. Now we are going to pretend like this is still pinned to my fabric. I’m going
to take a straight pin, I’m going to put it through the number 12 mark that I needed
to do and make sure that I’m going through all my fabric layers as well. Then on the
wrong side of my fabric, all I’m going to do with my chalk or my pin, I’m just going
to mark where my straight pin is coming out of the fabric. So I would also do it over here, now if you
have a circle, square, triangle that does not have any number next to it that means
it’s for all sizes. The same thing with the pleats, we have quite a few pleats in this
design. So you are definitely going to want to make sure that you mark these on your fabric
as well. Just a quick overview on the directions. So what we are going to be doing is we are
going to be reading the written directions and there is a picture below to help kind
of explain it. But then we are also going to demonstrate
what exactly we need to do for each step. In order to read this, you’re going to see
over here we have a sewing information fabric key. So again this is just like when we’re
doing the layout, solid means we are looking at the right side of the fabric, white means
we are looking at the wrong side. We don’t really have to worry about interfacing in
this project, but we do have linings. So we have the right side of the lining, wrong side
of lining. So this is what makes it easy to looking in
these pictures here. For example on this picture here I know I’m looking at the wrong side
of the lining or the inside of the garment because I can just look at this and it helps
interpret it for me. Also very important is you are going to want to know what the seam
allowance is. And it’s right down here, 5/8ths of an inch, unless they state something differently
for each direction, but if it tells you to do a seam and it doesn’t say anything in
particular, you are always going to assume its 5/8ths of an inch. You’re also going to want to make sure that
you are doing the directions for your view. If we look here at the top, this says okay
we are starting with one, we are doing the bodice for views A and B. So if you are doing
dress C and D, you’re going to have to continue looking down in the directions until you find
your view. And also sometimes in the directions they will split off, like if I go over here,
for 10, it says view A, so if you’re doing view B, you would go ahead and skip this step. So we are going to go ahead and get started
with making our dress. Step one, working on a flat surface, pin right side of bodice,
lining the sections to wrong side of each matching bodice fabric section, base through
all symbols and all lines of construction is shown, leaving both ends of thread free
for easy removal. We are going to be now working with the bodice pieces, so that’s piece 1,
2, 3 and 4. I’m going to show you how to do this on 2 just as an example, but you’re
going to be doing the same thing for all four pieces. I like to keep my pieces pinned to my pattern
until I’m ready to use it, so I can keep everything straight. Now here I have my lace
overlay or you may be using eyelet and then you have your lining. These are both number
two pieces, I have one of each. So all they want you to do is you’re going to take for
each bodice piece, you’re going to lay your lace right side facing up. So this is the
right side and this is the wrong side and this is the right side of my lining. So with your overlay piece facing, right side
facing up towards you, you’re going to lay it over on the right side of the lining. So
you just have to think of it, as you’re looking at the right side of the lace with the right
side of the lining peeking through the lace. Then I’m just going to pin all the way around
the perimeter. Here is my straight pins, make sure everything is lined up. Then what they
want you to do is baste all away around the perimeter of the whole piece because we want
to attach the lining to our overlay and that way we are able to work with it and everything
is attached. The thing that you have to do is you are sewing
each side separately, so when you are basting, you are starting here, stitching at the 5/8ths
inch line is fine. Then you stop here, you cut your threads, now you’re going to do
the other side. So you’re going to start here, you are going to stitch, stop, cut your
basting threads. Then you’re going to do the same thing here, here and then here. So
again it’s going to be sewn all the way around, but you’re going to do each side separately,
cutting the threads in between. But you also have to make sure that you are
stitching through the pleat lines as well. So you can see, I transferred my marks here
and all I’m going to do is I’m going to start here and I’m going to just baste straight
through my marks, for my pleats and then I have another set right here. So then I’m
going to do the same thing right here. So you’re going to have pieces that are not
only going to be stitched all the way around, but where you have your pleats either down
here at the bottom of the bodice or maybe it might be up here at the shoulder. You’re going to have straight basting lines
like this. When I’m doing a basting stitch, I am going to actually use the largest stitch
on my machine and because this is a temporary stitch that is eventually going to be removed,
you don’t have to do any back stitching and I am also using a contrasting thread, so it
will be easy to see and therefore easier to remove. Step two pin bodice right front to bodice
left front, stitch, trim, seam to a scant one quarter inch. We are going to be working
with pieces 1 and 2. So I’m just going to go ahead and remove my pattern pieces. Now
you will notice on 2, on this long edge here you have a single notch here and on this curve
here of number 2, we also have a single notch. These notches should match and all I’m going
to do is I’m going to flip it. So it’s going to be a right side to right side, so lace
or eyelet together. Now you will notice this kind of curves and
it doesn’t exactly lineup with this edge, that is fine. All we are going to do is kind
of force it to fit. So the first thing I’m going to do is I’m going to match up the
notches, go ahead and stick a straight pin through all layers and then I’m going to
go ahead and take this corner, meet it with the other corner and do the same thing down
here. And then the area in the middle I am just going to fill it with pins and kind of
ease the two pieces together. And then we are going to take it to our machine, so you
can go ahead and stitch a 5/8ths inch seam allowance. When sewing your seam, do your best to keep
your basting threads out of the way and I’m going to go ahead and make sure that I do
a backstitch at the top end, at the end, just doing a regular slip stitch and just sewing
at the 5/8ths inch mark. To finish step two, the last thing we need to do is trim our seam
allowance, so here is the seam that we just created and I have already went ahead and
did it and all you do is just cut down that seam allowance so there is only a quarter
of an inch left to it. Step three, with wrong sides together,
crease along seam encasing raw edges stitch along stitching line. So again we are going
to be working with this piece and this is why we actually trimmed our seam allowance
because what we are going to do is I am going to take this number two piece which is the
smaller and I’m going to flip it, so now it’s underneath number one here. And right
where you have this seam line, we are actually going to fold it, so the seam line is going
to be right on the edge and just to make it a little bit easier, I’m going to go ahead
and pin through just to hold it and I’m going to do this all along the whole seam line here. And what we are going to do is, now you’re
going to take it back to our machine and we are going to stitch right on top and if you
looked at our pattern piece, number one we will say it’s also a number two as well,
you will see stitching line and there is this line that goes from the bottom to the top
here. This should be transferred to your fabric piece and it’s a little hard to see if you
can kind of see it right here. If I flipped it over to the side, you can definitely see
it on this side right here. So that is going to be the line that we are going to stitch
on, as we are doing it. So I am going to take it to my machine, stitch
along the stitching line, this is going to fully enclose that quarter inch seam allowance.
So if I was to open this up after it’s stitched you can see my seam allowance here, but after that part is stitched, that part is going to be totally enclosed and we
are not going to see this raw edge any more. At this view, you can see my line, it’s a
little bit easier to see. So that’s the line I’m going to follow and you can go ahead
and do a couple of back stitches and you’re just going to do a regular width stitch and
go all the way down to the end and then do another back stitch. Step 4 to make pleats in bodice, an outside
crease along lines of small circles, bring creases to lines of large circles based, based
across raw edges, press. So now we are going to be creating our pleats and I’m going to
show you how to do it on the pattern because it’s a little bit easier to see what’s going
on here. So here are our pleat lines here and of course you only needed to transfer
the ones that have your size. So I can go ahead and skip this and just do this circle,
this dot and I definitely put a smaller circle here on my fabric and then a larger here because
that’s going to be important later. And then if you look up here, you see another
12 and then we have another 12 up here. And the same thing for these and these so it looks
overwhelming, but you only need to do four on each set, so here, here and then here and
here. So what you’re going to do is wherever you have your small circles, I am just going
to show you in the middle here. You’re going to crease your fabric right along where the
small circles are and it’s nice because they put this little handy arrows for us as well. And all you’re going to do is you’re going
to take this crease and you’re going to bring it to the large circles. And once it’s over
there, you’re going to grab a straight pin, you’re going to pin through all layers and
then I’m going to do the same thing here and here. And I’m going to go ahead and grab
my fabric of this, so I can show you that I have already started and you can see I started
to pin it. Now the last one, now this is why it was nice that you basted through your pleat
lines because it really makes it easy to see and what you are going to be doing for this
part. So the one, this one here is actually this
one over here. These set of circles should actually be right on your crease from this
last step that we just did. Remember we did this top stitch right on this crease where
these two colors meet, that’s where you have your last set of lines. So you are bringing
this crease over to that last set of big, circles. And then you are going to pin it
through all those layers and then you are just going to go ahead, take it to your machine.
You can go ahead and baste straight across right on that 5/8ths line and then you can
press this. So we are going to have a nice crease right where your pleats are. Step five, pin bodice right back to bodice
left back, stitch, trim, seam to a scant one quarter inch. So we have already done this
before and we are just going to be doing it for our back pieces now. So this is the back
bodice, so these are pieces three and four and all you are going to do is just like before
you will see that one long side of three has a double notch, same as with four. This curve
here, we have a double notch here. So these need to be matching. I will go ahead and remove
my pattern pieces. Right side facing up, I am just going to flip this one, so these edges
now match. The right sides are now together and I can
go ahead, pin the notches, pin the edges and then pin all in between. So everything is
lined up and matching with the raw edges. You’re going to go ahead and stitch your
5/8ths inch seam allowance and then just like before, you’re going to go ahead and trim
it, so you are only leaving a quarter of an inch seam allowance left. Step six with wrong sides together crease
along seam and casing raw edges, stitch along stitching line. You’re going to take piece
number four, you’re going to flip it, so it’s underneath piece number three here.
And then you’re going to fold right on that seam line, so the seam line ends up right
on the crease, you are going to go ahead and pin these two pieces together. And then you’re
going to stitch right on that stitching line again. Step seven, make pleats in bodice back baste across raw edges. So we are going to be making our pleats again and you’re going
to crease along the small dots or small circles and bring that to the large circles and you
have three sets of pleats, and grab my straight pins here. Pin through all layers, so I have
done one here, here is my second one and again there is going to be one that’s going to
be right in this crease and that’s going to go to my last set of large dots and then
you are just going to baste across the raw edges, basting down your pleats and you’re
going to press it. Step eight, stitch bodice front and bodice
back together, shoulder, finish raw edges of seam allowances. This is the front right
side facing up, now I’m going to grab my back bodice and I’m going to place them so
they’re going to be right side to a right side and what we are going to be doing is
matching the shoulder, which is up here at the top, we have a single notch and a single
notch. So I want to make sure that those are lined up. And then also the ends here and
you’re going to go ahead, stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance, press your seams open
and then we will talk about finishing the raw edges after that’s done. Here is my seam pressed open, now to finish
the raw edges you have a couple of different options. First what you need to do is stitch
one quarter of an inch on each side, away from the raw edge, so here is the raw edge.
I go quarter of an inch in and then I just do a regular stitch and I’m not stitching
this to this part. It’s just by itself, one layer and doing this side and then I am doing
this side over here. Now for the raw edge, if you have a serger, you can do a serging
stitch, you can do an overcast or a zigzag stitch on your sewing machine or you can just
cut it with your pinking shears which you can see I have done over here. Step nine, stitch bodice front and bodice
back together at right side and double stitch seam, press toward back, stitch bodice front
and bodice back together at left side living opening below a large circle. Clip one quarter
inch above large circle, stitch again one quarter inch away and seam allowance to clip,
trim close to second stitching, press seem toward back. So I know that sounds like a
lot, but we’re going to take the first part and then we will do the second part. So we’ll
just take it a little bit at a time. So here is our bodice, the back is now attached
to the front at the shoulder seam up there which we can’t see right now. We are going
to actually be dealing with the side seams of the bodice now. So we have one over here
and then we have one over here. We are actually going to be dealing with a side that has the
double notches, you can see over here is a double notch, I have a double notch over here,
and this side doesn’t have any notches. So you’re going to be dealing with this side
and all you’re going to be doing is bringing both the front and back bodice together at
this edge, go ahead and match the notches and all the raw edges in the ends here. You are just going to pin and you’re going
to stitch your 5/8ths inch seam allowance, it’s your regular stitch. Don’t forget to
do your back stitches on both sides. Then you’re going to do another stitch, you’re
just going to move up a quarter of an inch, so that’s going to be your 3/8ths line, so
5/8ths line and 3/8ths line and you’re going to do another stitch, regular stitch back
stitch on both sides. Then what you’re going to do is just take your seam allowance and
you’re going to trim it, so it’s close to that second stitch at the 3/8ths line. Once you finish doing those two stitches and
trimming your seam allowance, you can go ahead, take your seam allowance and you’re going
to press it towards the back bodice. Now if you look up here, at the top, you will see
a single notch, this one doesn’t have any notches. The one with the single notch, this
one right here, this is the front of the bodice, this is the back of the bodice. So I take my seam allowance and press it towards
the back. After that, we can move on to the other side seam, so this is the side that
has no notches on it and you’re going to line it up, just like we did with the other
side, the front is lined up with the back, right side to right side and you can go ahead
and pin it, but the only thing is that we are only stitching, you will notice there
is a circle on your pattern which should have been transferred to your fabric. So you are
only stitching from the top to the circle at your 5/8ths line. So I have already went ahead and did that
and everything below the circle stays open. So you’re not going to stitch that because
we are going to end up putting a zipper here. So I’m just going to turn this around, so
it’s a little bit easier for me to get to. After you stitch it, one quarter of an inch
above your circle here, so about right there, you’re going to clip an inverted notch. And
you’re not going to clip into your seam, you’re just going to clip just about to it.
Like that. Then you’re going to go ahead and start here
at the top and you’re going to stitch another line. So this is going to be a quarter inch
in, so you have one at the 5/8ths, so again you’re going to go to the 3/8ths line and
you’re going to stitch until you get to your notch and then you’re going to stop. Don’t
forget to back stitch and then you’re going to take this area and just like with the other
one you’re going to press it to the back. Moving on to step ten, stitch ends of net
casing together, so now we are going to be dealing with piece number five, this is the
neck casing. And I’m going to go ahead and remove this, just make sure that you transfer
any marks, we have squares here and we have a triangle here, these get transferred to
your fabric piece before you remove your pattern. And I have a right side facing up, I’m going
to go ahead and take one end and this is a very long piece, bring it to the other end,
so the right sides are together. Match up the edges here and you can go ahead and pin
them and then stitch a 5/8ths inch seam and press your seam allowance open. Step 11, with wrong sides together, fold neck
casing along the roll line, pin edges, press lightly. Here is my casing, so there is piece
number five and here is my seam allowance I just created, this is the wrong side that
we are looking at. So the next step is you’re going to take one edge and bring it over to
the other edge, so the wrong side is on the inside. Just folding it directly in half and
the right side is on the outside. Grab some straight pins and you can go ahead
and pin all along the raw edge and go all the way around the whole casing. After you
finish pinning this, you can go ahead and press the top, so we can get a slight crease
up here at the fold line. Step 12, pin casing to neck edge, stitch,
trim. You’re going to take your casing and you’re going to pin it around the neckline
here. Now if you look at your casing, you will actually see that we have a single notch
here, this matches up with the single notch on the front of the bodice. You’re going
to want to make sure that the raw edge of the casing lines up with the raw edge of the
neckline. So I’m going to go ahead and pin that into place. Next what I have is a triangle. I actually
have a triangle right here at my shoulder seam. So that is going to match, go ahead
and pin that into place. And then I also have a square, the square is going to match the
side seam here at the end of the neckline. And then after all those areas are pinned,
you can go ahead and pin the rest of the neckline, going all the way around here. You are then
going to stitch a 5/8ths inch seam allowance attaching the casing to the neckline and then
you can go ahead and trim down that seam allowance. So I’m going to go ahead, pin this, stitch
it and then trim it. Step 13, turn casing inside along seam, press,
and stitch has shown leaving an opening. This is my bodice, its wrong side out now, here
is the right side and this is the casing that we just stitched along the neckline and I
went ahead and trimmed my seam allowance. The next step is you’re going to take your
casing and you’re going to flip it over to the inside of the bodice. So this seam line
between your outside, so my lace and my casing is going to be right on the fold. So your seam line is right on the fold there
and all of the casing is on the inside of the bodice. You can go ahead and pin all the
way around the casing and you’re going to press it once it’s all pinned. After it’s
pressed, the next step is you’re going to come along and you’re going to stitch right
on this bottom fold line of the casing and you’re going to go all the way around. So
it’s stitched then to the bodice, but you’re going to leave an opening because we need
to get our elastic inside the casing. So we have a nice snug top. So to do that I’m just going to pin part
of this here. And let’s pretend that I pinned the whole thing. I’m going to make sure that
I leave an opening about a couple of inches in length. So at one point and it doesn’t
matter where along the neckline you put it. I’m going to put a set of Xs with my pins
and then a couple of inches away, I am going to do another set. So then, the rest of this
was all pinned and I am just ready to go ahead and stitch my casing down, remember we are
stitching right along this bottom fold line of the casing. I could start here, stitch all the way around,
don’t forget to back stitch and then I would stop here and then back stitch again. So between
these two pins, there is no stitching, it’s going to be open, and so we can go ahead and
put in that elastic. Here is a little closer view of the casing on the inside. So I’m
starting at one of my Xs here. And it’s important that you get as close to the fold line as
you can. If you end up cutting too far in, you might have a problem later when you’re
trying to get the elastic through. So I made sure to back stitch and then I’m just going
to go around until I get to the other X and then do another back stitch. Step 14, cut elastic the length of guide for
elastic, insert elastic through opening, lap ends, hold with safety pin, try on, adjust
if necessary, stitch ends of elastic securely, stitch opening stretching elastic while stitching.
You are going to use piece 17 as an elastic guide, so this piece is going to tell you
how long to cut your elastic which I’ve already done right here. So once you have your elastic
cut, go ahead and bring in our bodice. Here you can see my opening and what I am going
to do is insert the elastic now into the casing. You are going to need a small safety pin for
this, take your safety pin, put it on the edge of your elastic. So this will give us
some thing that we can hold on to as it’s moving through the casing. It just makes it
a lot easier. So the safety pin side goes in first and then I’m just going to gather
the fabric or the casing onto the safety pin and then with his hand, I am going to pull
and I’m going to keep doing that until the elastic comes out on this other side here. When you have both ends of the elastic, you
can go ahead, remove the safety pin, you’re going to overlap the ends about a half inch
or so and then I’m going to put the safety pin through both ends of the elastic. At this
point, you can go ahead and try on the bodice and see how the elastic fits. If necessary,
you can always cut down the elastic if it feels like it’s to lose and you want to make
it tighter. If you need to make it longer, then you probably have to cut a new piece
of elastic. So once it feels good you can go ahead, you
can go ahead and remove the safety pin and replace it with a straight pin and stitch
across from one end to the other of the elastic and I would go back and forth a couple of
times and then move about a quarter of an inch and do another set of stitches making
sure that you go through both ends of the elastic here, so it’s nice and secure and
it’s not going to come undone. Then you can go ahead, stretch your elastic, so it goes
inside the casing, not with the safety pin. Obviously now it’s stitched and as you are
pulling it, you can go ahead and stitch the casing closed where you have
this opening, going ahead and stitching right along that fold line. We’re now going to skip to step 23 because
the steps before that deal with view B. So step 23, we are now going to work on the armhole.
Stay stitch, armhole edge, so here is the armhole of my bodice and we only have one
in this particular case. All you need to do is from the edge, you are going to go in a
half inch and you are going to stitch around the whole armhole, just the regular stitch,
a half inch in. Step 24, stitch ends of armhole binding together.
So we are going to need piece eight, you only have one of this. Its cut out of lining, right
side is facing up, I am going to bring the short ends together, so the right sides are
together and then on this end, you’re just going to stitch a 5/8ths inch seam allowance
and press it open. Step 25 with wrong sides together, fold binding
along roll line, press lightly, pin raw edges together. So here is our binding and this
is the seam allowance we just did. So just like you did before, you are going to fold
the whole thing in half. And you are going to make sure that the right side of the fabric
is on the outside and the wrong side is here on the inside. With that folded in half, you
can go ahead and press the folded edge, then grab your straight pins and pin the raw edges
together all the way around the binding. Step 26, pin binding to armhole edge, placing
large circle at shoulder seam, stitch stretching binding to fit. Trim, seam to a scant one
quarter inch, press seam toward binding. Here is my armhole binding again. And you will
notice here, I have a single notch, I have my seam and I have a double notch over here.
We also have a large circle. So all they want you to do is fit the binding over your armhole
on the right side of the garment, you are going to be matching the edge or your binding
to the edge of the armhole. So here we have the single notch, this large circle at the
top is going to match at the shoulder seam up here. And then the seam and the binding is going
to match the side seam of the bodice, so just line that up. And then the double notch is
the back of the bodice and that’s going to match the double notch of your binding. So
we are going to stitch this in a place, you could go ahead and do it at the 5/8ths inch
mark and you may have to stretch the binding a little bit as you are sewing it, in order
to get it to fit the armhole. But definitely pin all the way around before you start stitching
this, you can try to ease it all on to into place. And then after you stitch it, go ahead,
you are going to trim your seam allowance, so there is only a quarter of an inch left,
then I would press out your binding away from the garment making sure that what’s left
of your seam allowance ends up underneath the binding. So if I was to flip this over,
I would see the seam allowance on the binding side and not on the bodice side. Step 27, turn binding to inside over seam,
baste is place, stretching binding to fit, stitch close to the basted edge. Here is the
binding that we just attached, you can see that I trimmed my seam allowance and this
is, we are looking at the inside of the garment. So I flipped the garment wrong side out and
just like we did with the neckline, you are then going to take your binding and you’re
going to flip it to the inside of the garment and you’re going to make sure that the seam
between the binding and the outer shell, so the lace in this case, this seam right here
is going to end up right on that fold. You can kind of see my basting stitches right
there in the middle. I’m going to pin it all in a place, all the way around the whole
armhole and then what you can do is you can baste the binding to the garment and I would
probably baste close to this edge, so it’s going to be basted in a place and then you’re
going to go ahead and stitch as close to the folded edge as possible and then the binding
will be attached to the armhole. Steps 28 through 46 are for view C and D,
so we are going to skip to step 47. Working on a flat surface, pin right side of skirt
lining sections to wrong side of each matching skirt fabric section, baste through all symbols
and all lines of construction as shown, leaving both ends of thread free for easier removal.
Sew invisibly 1.5 inches above lower edge, baste a quarter inch from the raw edges. We
are now going to be working with the skirt sections, so this is going to be pieces 12,
13, 14 and 15. I am going to show an example on how to do
this with piece 13, but you’re going to do the same for all of them. Just like we did
with the bodice sections, you are going to take your lace or eyelet overlay pieces and
you’re going to lay them on top of the matching lining pieces. So remember, right side of
lining is facing up, right side of lace is facing up and they are going to be laid right
on top of each other, so you are looking at the right side and the right side of the lining
is coming through the lace. You are going to pin all the way around the
perimeter of each of these pieces. So everything is matching with your notches and also with
the edges. Then just like we did before, you’re going to want to baste the edges of each of
your pieces. So we are basting the sides, the top and here is the other side making
sure to do each separately. You’re going to baste here, you’re going to cut your threads,
you are going to do this section separately and you’re going to do this section separately.
You also want to do all your pleat lines. So wherever you have a mark, you are going
to stitch right down to the bottom of this bottom mark here and I’m going to do this
for each of these. The bottom part of the skirt, so this is the
part of the skirt that has the slow curve, we are going to leave this alone until we
have done all these other side, so don’t stitch down here. This is actually
a separate step on step 47 which is to sew invisibly across the bottom hem area, 1.5
inches from the bottom. And I’m going to show you how to do that next, so we will explain
it. And then you’re going to do a quarter inch basting stitch after you do the sew invisibly
part. To start with this part, the first thing you’re
going to do, is I grab my sewing gauge and my fabric marker and 1.5 inches from this
bottom, I am going to go ahead and make a mark all the way and I’m going to do this
for each of my skirt portion. So then I have a line to kind of use as a guide. But we are
going to get a little bit closer, so I can show you how to sew invisibly across the bottom. To sew invisibly, I am going to look at the
wrong side of my skirt, so this is the lining side and this is where I drew my line, my
dotted line, 1.5 inches above the bottom of the skirt. I am going to grab some thread
and my sewing needle and for this one, I am picking a thread that actually matches instead
of a contrasting one that I normally do for my basting stitches. What I am going to do
is grab just a little bit of the lining only, not the overlay, so not the lace in this case
because I’m just trying to get my knot in there on the lining side. Then I’m going to go up about a quarter of
an inch from my where my thread is coming out of my fabric, this time I’m going down
through both layers, so the lining and the lace and then I’m going to come up just a
little ways away from that, you want this stitch to be pretty small. I’m going to flip
it over to the right side to make sure that I can see my needle and also see that it is
grabbing a little bit of lace. We only want this stitch to be small because we don’t
really want it to show on the right hand side of the fabric. So once I pull that up, I go about
a quarter of an inch making sure that I am following along with my dotted line here,
going through both layers and then coming up, so I am making a very small stitch. Again
I check to make sure I can see my needle and it is grabbing some lace, pull it through
and then just repeat. So a quarter inch away, go through both layers and then from that
I’m doing another quarter inch away. And you’re going to do this for the bottom of
all your skirt pieces, so that’s 12, 13, 14 and a 15. Once you finish this, on this bottom side
right here, you can go ahead and do a basting stitch, a quarter of an inch away from the
edge. Step 48, stitch skirt right front and skirt left front sections together and double
stitch seam, press seam to one side. We are going to need pieces 13 and pieces 12. Go
ahead and remove our pattern pieces here. Right side is facing up; you will see here
I have a straight edge with a single notch, single notch, and same thing over here. Its
straight edge and I have two single notches. This is kind of slanted and it has a double
notch down here. This is the side seam; this is the center front seam. So we are going
to need to put these two pieces together. I am going to take 13; I am going to flip
it over onto 12, so the right sides are together. And I am going to make sure that I line up
the raw edge, the two notches and the ends here. You can go ahead and pin these raw edges
together, just this side right here. Because we are going to stitch our 5/8ths inch seam
allowance and then you are going to go up a quarter towards the seam allowance. So 5/8ths
and then 3/8ths you are going to stitch another stitch at the 3/8ths line. So you are going
to have two rows of stitches, then you can go ahead, trim your seam allowance and press
your seam toward one side. Step 49 to make pleats in skirt front on outside
crease along lines of small circles, bring creases to lines of large circles, baste,
baste it across raw edges, press. We are going to be creating our pleats again just like
we did with our bodice. I have actually already started over on this side. I have one more
line of large circles right here at the edge between the two sides of the skirts and then
I have one small set of dots over on this side. So we are actually going to cross over
by creasing right at that basting line that I had put in earlier, of the small dots coming
over to the large dots on the red side here. And you’re going to pin across the top through
all layers to hold it and then I have another one, crease along the small, bringing to the
large and pin it. You’re going to baste across the raw edges, you can do at the 5/8ths
line up here at the top, so you hold your pleats in place without the straight pins
and then you’re going to go ahead, baste it across here and then you’re going to press
it. Now for all my pleats, I am all going in this
direction towards 12, except for this last pleat, it actually is the only one that goes
in the opposite direction. So this line of small dots goes in this direction to the large
dots. And that’s it. Step 50 stitch skirt right back and skirt
left back sections together in a double stitch seam, press seam to one side. We are going
to be working with the skirt back now, so this is piece 14 and piece 15. I have the
right side facing up and again just like we did for the front you have a straight edge.
This time we have a single notch on each one, so these ones are going to match together.
I’m going to take this piece, match up the raw edge, so the ends are going to match,
the notches are going to match, go ahead. You’re going to pin your raw edge, you’re
going to do the two sets of stitches, so 5/8ths, 3/8ths, trim your seam and then press the
seam towards one side. Step 51, make pleats and skirt back, baste
it across raw edges, press. So we are doing the last of our pleats in the skirt back.
You can see I have already started here, just the same thing we have already done for our
other pleats. You crease along the small circles, bring them to the large circles, pin it and
then you’re going to baste it across the raw edges, so we hold our pleats in place. Step 52, pin one pocket section to skirt front
at each side, stitch pivoting across seam allowance at small circles, clip diagonally
to small circles, turn pocket to inside and press. We are going to be working with the
skirt front, so this is 12 and 13 that have been stitched together and the pleats are
all done at the top. Next you’re going to take your pocket piece, so this is piece 16,
cut out of your lining. And from this piece you should have cut four. We have two sets,
you’re just going to take one set, so that’s two pieces that are opposite of each other. And on the front you’re going to place right
side to right side, one pocket matching up the edge here at the top and the notch here
and you’re going to go ahead and pin this edge down. I am going to take my other pocket
and I am going to put it on the other side of the skirt as well, but I’m just going
to show you on this side. So you’re going to go ahead and pin this all down and you’re
going to stitch starting here at this small dot, there is a small dot that’s on your
pocket piece and also on your skirt. So you’re going to start here at the raw
edge, you’re going to stitch down to the circle, then you’re going to pivot and you’re
going to stitch across at your 5/8ths inch line, until you get to this other dot, then
you’re going to pivot again and stitch up to the raw edge. After you finished stitching,
you’re going to go ahead and cut these notches, this is going to be on the inside of the box
that we just stitched. So here is my stitching line right here and
then I pivot here, so this is right on the inside of this stitch and I’m making sure
that I cut pretty close to my dot, but not cutting into my stitches and I’m going to
do the same thing on the side and then on the other side as well where my pocket is.
Then you’re going to flip your pocket to the inside of the dress or the wrong side
of the dress and you’re going to press it and I have already done it on this other side. So you kind of see this is what your pocket
is going to look like on the right side of your garment. So this is where we started
the box where we pivoted to here and then to here, so it’s going to kind of look like
the square notched area in your skirt. Step 53, pin one remaining pocket section
to each pocket, stitch outer edge in a double stitch seam keeping skirt free. We have one
more set of pocket pieces here and you’re going to take one and place it on each pocket.
So you’re just going to place it, so all the edges of the pockets meet and then also
you will notice there is a notch down here and that meets as well. What we are going
to do is the double stitch, you can go ahead and pin this outer side to keep them all together
and you’re not pinning it to your skirt, it’s just the pockets by themselves. You’re going to start stitching from here,
going along the curve and ending here. So just this path here, you don’t stitch here
and you don’t stitch here. You’re going to do the 5/8ths inch seam allowance, then
the 3/8ths inch seam allowance, so there is going to be two rows of stitches, don’t forget
to back stitch on each side and remember, you are not switching it to the skirt, it’s
just the two pocket pieces together and you’re going to do for this one and then the one
on the other side. Step 54 turn pocket down, baste side and upper
edges, this is the right side of our skirt and this is where you put in your pocket,
so this is the first pocket we put in and this is the second part of the pocket we just
attached. All you are going to do is you’re going to pin up here at the top where the
start of your pocket is, going through all layers and then you’re also going to pin
the side. Then you are going to baste here, the side, you can stop right here and then
start again until you get to the end of the pocket which is about right here. So then all your pocket pieces are going to
be attached to the front of the skirt and you’re going to do it for this side and then
for that side over there as well. Step 55, pin skirt front to skirt back at
sides, stitch right side in a double stitch seam, being careful not to catch pocket opening
and stitching. Stitch left side below large circle and clip 3/4 inch below large circle,
stitch again 1/4 inch away in seam allowance to clip. Trim close to second stitching, press
seam toward back. We are now going to attach our skirt back to our skirt front. This is
my back; I have a right side facing up, so I’m going to go ahead and grab the skirt
front and place it directly on the back. So the sides are going to line up because
that’s what we are going to attach next. On the right side, you’re going to do your
double stitch seam, so that’s going to be stitching from the top to the bottom; you’re
going to do the 5/8ths line and then the 3/8ths line. And you’re going to be really careful
that we don’t catch this part of the pocket that we just did, which is the pocket opening
or you’re going to sew your pocket close. So this part where it was folded over from
the pocket being stitched to the skirt. If you want, you can pin it, forward a little
bit and just get it out of the way, so you are only stitching this pocket piece and not
this part. So again two rows of stitches, don’t forget the backstitch on both sides,
you can go ahead and trim close to the second stitch that you do and then press your seam
towards the back and the skirt back is on the bottom as well, I’m doing it under. On
this side, let me just move it down, so I can reach it a little bit easier. We are going to be putting a zipper, you will
notice that you have a large circle on your skirt piece, everything above the circle needs
to stay open because this is where we are going to put the second half of the zipper.
From this circle, you are going to stitch down 5/8ths of an inch, then you’re going
to measure down from the circle, three quarters of an inch and you’re going to clip one of
your little notches, being sure as not to clip your stitches. Then from your notch you’re going to stitch
down the 3/8ths line, so one quarter in from where you just did your last stitching. Then
from there, you can go ahead, trim your seam allowance and press it toward the back. Step 56, pin skirt to bodice, matching centers,
and stitch in double stitch seam. Here is my skirt inside out, I am going to get my
bodice here and the bodice is right side out because what I’m going to do is stick, this
is the shoulder at the top of the bodice into my skirt, so now the right sides are together
and remember we have an opening here on the bodice, at the bottom of the bodice and then
we have an opening at the top of our skirt. So this is the side that the zipper is going
to go in. So I’m going to make sure that I match up these ends, so I can start pinning
this. I have a notch here in the front of my bodice
and a notch in the front of my skirt, so I’m going to match up that as well. I am just
basically going to pin all around the bottom of the bodice to the top of the skirt and
make sure everything matches. So here is the other end of my bodice, it’s going to go
to the end on this other side. Once you have everything pinned, you can go ahead and do
the double stitch which again is the 5/8ths and the 3/8ths line, you’re doing two rows
of stitches and you can just do a regular with stitch and do a back stitch, starting
here, go all the way around ending here do another back stitch. Step 57, cut elastic the length of guide for
elastic, mark small circles. So we have already done this before, we are using the same piece,
piece 17, our elastic guide and you’re going to cut a piece of elastic, the length of the
guide. Now you will notice on the pattern piece, there are circles, there is one here
in the middle and then there is some on the end, so you are going to want to make sure
that you mark that on your elastic. Step 58, pin elastic along bodice seam allowance
at waist placing ends at seam lines on side opening edges and center small circle at right
side seam. Stretch elastic evenly and pin the seam allowance at centers and sides, stitch
along center of elastic, stretching to fit, press seam toward bodice. You are going to
take your elastic that you just cut and this is the waist line of the dress. So this is
the skirt, this is the bodice, we just stitched this together, here is our seam allowance
right here where we did the double stitch. Again we have our opening here, where we are
going to put the zipper and then the right seam is over here. We are looking at the front
of the dress, you’re going to take the end of your elastic and you’re going to put it
at this side seam here on the end of your opening. And you’re going to pin it to the
seam allowance only, not to the bodice, not to the skirt, just pull it apart. So it’s
all separate and you’re going to pin it at the end. Then the circle that we put in the
middle of our elastic, this is going to go at the right side seam, again at the seam
allowance. So I would pin it here again to the seam allowance,
just right in the middle of your seam allowance. Now you will notice that this from here to
here is longer than what the elastic is. So you are going to have to stretch the elastic
to fit and you’re going to pin it all the way along the way. And this is going to continue
on to the back of the dress until this end ends up with this end here in the back. So
again you’re going to have to stretch your elastic, you’re going to pin it to fit and
then we are going to get a little closer because what I’m going to do is after it’s pinned,
we are going to stitch right down the middle of that elastic to the seam allowance only
in order to attach the elastic. And once the pins are out and we stitch it, what’s going
to happen is the elastic is going to cinch in the waist line of the dress. So we are going to go ahead and get a little
closer, so it will be a little bit easier for you to see. I tucked my bodice back into
my skirt, so I can just sew on the seam allowance without having to worry about accidentally
stitching something else. So I’m just stitching right down the middle of the elastic to the
seam allowance and even though I went ahead and pinned it, I’m still going to have to
stretch the elastic as I’m sewing because you can see the fabric is already starting
to gather and we want it to go on flat. So I’m just going to use a regular stitch, don’t
forget to backstitch and just go right down the middle. Step 59 open zipper, on outside pin zipper
to front opening edge facedown and seam allowance placing upper zipper stop at large circle,
zipper teeth on seam line and tapering end. Position left-hand grove of zipper foot over
teeth, stitch close to teeth between large circles and keeping the front opening edge
pocket free. We are going to be putting in our invisible zipper now into the side of
our dress and I have my dress right side out. So here is my invisible zipper and you’ll
notice that one side is nice and flat and then on the opposite side, you can feel the
teeth. This is the wrong side of the zipper; this
flat side is the right side of the zipper. So the first thing you’re going to do is
open up your zipper, you’re going to flip it, so the right side of the zipper is facing
down towards the dress. Now your zipper teeth on the right, so this one right here is going
to go on this side of the opening of your dress. You’re going to position it, so the
zipper stop at the top, should be right at your first circle up here. So you might have extra
zipper tape, you can just stick that up there. So the stop is right at this large circle
here. The teeth of the zipper should line up with your basting stitch that we did in
step one, that’s why I did a contrasting thread because it’s really easy to see. So
I’m just positioning my teeth right over that basting stitch and all I’m going to
do is pin all the way down the zipper until I get to my large circle down here and that’s
where the end of my zipper is going to be. Now remember we have our pocket here, so you’re
going to be careful that even though the teeth may line up with the edge of the pocket, we
are not actually going to stitch this front pocket, it’s instead going with this back
pocket portion that we have here. So I’m going to go ahead and pin this on and then
we will get to the machine, where we can get a little closer look at sewing it. You must
use a special invisible zipper foot when putting an invisible zipper. If you don’t have one,
you can get an universal invisible zipper kit at your fabric store. If you are unsure on how to use this foot,
definitely check out our video, invisible zippers and we will show you how to use a
foot just like this. So you can see that I have my teeth of the zipper in the left groove
of the foot and my needle is going to be going down into this hole right in the middle here.
All I’m going to be doing is just stitching right next to this teeth and that’s what
this foot helps me to do, so I am just going to go all the way down using a regular stitch
and don’t forget to back stitch on both ends. Step 60, close zipper, pin remaining zipper
tape to back opening edge, placing zipper teeth on seam line, tapering upper end. Here
is my zipper, now my dress is inside out, the last time it was right side out. And I’m
just going to zip up my zipper, we’re still at the top. So now I’m going to take this
side of the zipper, the one that’s not stitched down and I’m going to pin it to this side.
So all I’m going to do is I have my basting line again right at the seam line and that’s
where the teeth needs to go, the middle of the zipper. So I am just going to fold it, so that’s
right on the edge or right on the fold. And then I’m going to bring my zipper over and
you just kind of have to lay it down and then check on it and see if the teeth are right
in the middle, which they are right at that position. So I will grab my straight pins
and pin it into place all the way down. Step 61, open zipper, position right hand
groove at zipper foot over teeth, stitch between large circles. So after you pin it, you can
go ahead, open up your zipper and then you’re going to position the zipper teeth underneath
this right groove and you are just going to stitch along on this side until the zipper
is attached. Step 62, close zipper, stitch your hands,
and sew each end of the zipper tape to seam allowances, keeping skirt free while stitching.
My zipper is closed, so at the end, at the top and the bottom, all we are going to be
doing is doing a couple of tacking stitches in order to hold the rest of the zipper tape
down to our seam allowance. So I am just doing the seam allowance only, I’m not stitching
to the bodice or to the skirt and I have my needle and thread here and I’m just going
to do a couple of stitches on each side. Now on the bottom of the zipper, you may not
have been able to sew all the way down to the end of the zipper on your side seam because
the zipper tap got in the way as you were stitching. So you may also have to do a couple
of stitches along the side of the zipper at the bottom, just in order to close up if you
have any holes in the side seam because we definitely don’t want to have any holes.
So I would just do the same thing that I am doing now. We’re just going to do a few stitches,
just to hold it down and I’m going to tie a knot and do this side and then I’ll also
do the bottom. All right, so it’s the last step, step 63,
turn up hem, baste close to fold, stitch 1/4 inch from raw edge using long stitches,
adjust fullness, shrink out with steam, finish raw edge, sew hem and place, press. We are
now going to be working at the bottom of our skirt, we are going to hem it into place,
so I’m looking at the inside of the skirt portion and I’m going to take the raw edge,
fold it to the inside or the wrong side of the skirt 1.5 inches and you can go ahead
and pin that into place. And you will notice as you are pinning it,
this top portion is not going to seem to fit as well as it should, it will pucker a little
bit, so we are going to be dealing with that. The first thing that you’re going to do is
all along this bottom fold, you are going to baste with your machine all along the bottom
of the skirt. And once you are done with that, you can remove your straight pins, lift up
your raw edge, a quarter of an inch from the raw edge. You can go ahead and do a basting
stitch. So you are either doing the longest stitch
in your machine or you can do it by hand and you’re just doing it through the raw edge,
not through, going through with the skirt portion. The reason why we are doing this
is because if you don’t do a back stitch and you have your long threads hanging off,
you can pull the threads and that will ease the top of the skirt, so it will fit better
up here. You can also use steam from your iron in order to kind of shrink the top portion
a little bit, so it will fit better. I’m going to go ahead and do the basting
stitches and then I will show you how to finish the raw edge and also how to sew it into place.
I finished doing my basting stitch on top, now for me I like to do portions of the skirt
which means I baste the portion, I cut my threads and then I do the next portion. That
way I am not dealing with one string that I have to pull for the whole skirt. I only
have to do a little bit at a time. So what I do is I grab one of my threads from my basting
stitch. I pull on the fabric and you will see, it will start to gather and then I take
this gather and I kind of distribute it in the section that I am working with. So we are not getting any wrinkles, it’s
just taking this fullness and it’s kind of slowly just gathering it together. So once
the fullness looks like it’s going to fit for our skirt, we can start worrying about
finishing the top. Now further choices again, it’s the pinking shears, it’s an over lock
stitch, you can use your serger if you want to serge the top of it. For me I am just going
to take the raw edge and I am going to turn it under a quarter of an inch. So then my
basting line is going to be right on the fold line there and it just gives me a really easy
guideline and then I have a nice fold on top. So I’m just going to fold it all the way
around and go ahead and put on my pin, so then it’s easy for me to go ahead and to
start stitching that. To sew my hem into place, I am going to be doing a blind hem which is
similar to what we did earlier when we sewed invisibly. So you are going to need to grab
your needle and your thread and what we have up here is our folded edge and it doesn’t
matter if you have a folded edge or if you have a serged edge or an over lock edge, it’s
still going to be the same step. So this folded part is the part that we are
going to grab first with our needle and you should use a matching thread. I’m using a
contrasting one, so hopefully it will be a little bit easier for you to see. So I’m
actually coming, let me remove this pin, on the inside of the fold and coming up right
on that fold or right on the edge, that way my knot is going to be tucked on the inside.
So if we looked on the inside of the skirt, you’re not going to see my knot at all because
it’s tucked right in between there. Then I’m going to grab a little bit of the skirt,
so you can see my needle right there. Just a little bit. And then I’m going to go back and grab a
little bit of my folded edge right on the fold line. So if you do this right, you’re
not going to really see much of your stitches from this side, like if I pull it here, you
can see it, but if I lay it flat you can’t really see anything except for my basting
stitches there. Then grab a little bit of the skirt fabric and then we go back to the
fold, back to the skirt, back to the fold. Now if I lift this to the right side, you
can see my stitches right here, but obviously if I use a matching cream color thread, you’re
barely going to see anything. So that’s why it’s called a blind hem. So
after you finished doing your hem, you can go ahead and press your whole hemline, so
then it’s a nice crisp edge here and then up here as well if you also did the folded
edge. After you finish the hem, the only thing left to do is then to remove any basting stitches
or fabric markers as there is quite a bit in this dress. This has been McCall’s 6695
Dress A, we hope you enjoy your new party dress. Make sure to check out our other videos and
visit ProfessorPincushion.com to view our complete library, with well over a 150 sewing
video tutorials. New tutorials are released regularly, so make sure to subscribe to be
notified of the next release. Thanks for watching.

Leave a Reply

Your email address will not be published. Required fields are marked *