Making a lined jacket for Iplehouse EID BJDs

Making a lined jacket for Iplehouse EID BJDs

Hi, everyone! This is Lomi, and this week
I’ll be showing how to assemble the pattern I created for Rune’s jacket. The base pattern
is available on my site, and it’s a little more complicated than the other patterns I’ve
shared so far, so if you have any trouble understanding directions or can’t see what
I’m doing because my camera is zoomed in a little more than usual, don’t hesitate to
ask for help in the comments below. To begin, you’ll want to cut out your pattern
pieces and prepare them for assembly. I’ve pinned all my pieces together to get through
this tutorial a little faster. I’m using tan microsuede for the lining, the cap sleeves,
and the front flap. For the outer shell, I’m using medium weight denim blue suede. Start by sewing the cap sleeves. The bigger
curve is the outside, and the shallow curve is what will attach to the jacket. Place the
right sides of the fabric together, and sew both sleeves and set them aside. Next, sew the shoulder seams on the lining. As always,
make sure it’s assembled with right sides together. Then take the pieces for the front flap and
sew up one side and across the top, leaving the bottom and the other side open. Next up is the collar. Sew up one side, across
the top, and down the other side, leaving the bottom of the collar open. Now we’ll sew the outer shell. Since this
is a different color of fabric, I stop and switch to blue thread, then sew the shoulder
seams the same way as the lining, with right sides of the fabric together. Next, we’ll finish the sleeves. I use pinking
shears to trim the seam allowance, which will let the seam lay better when turned right
side out. You can do the same thing by cutting notches into the seam allowance with regular
scissors. Then I turn it right side out, using the cap of a pen to make sure the seam is
turned well. Next, I pin and measure some trim, cut it to length, and
sew it on. I do a lot of trim by machine because it’s faster, but it can be tricky, so you may prefer to
add your trims by hand. Adding the trim before attaching the sleeve will put
the raw edges of the trim inside the garment, where they won’t fray. Once both cap sleeves are embellished, I fold
one in half to find the center, then line the center up with the shoulder seam on the
jacket’s outer shell. Make sure you attach it with the trim side against the right side
of the jacket body. Pin the sleeve to the jacket, and then baste it together. I do this
by machine, using a long stitch and sewing about an eighth of an inch from the edge. Look at me, breaking my own first rule and
sewing over pins. Shame on me. Once it’s on, baste the other sleeve on the same way.
This keeps the sleeves from moving when we attach the lining, which is what comes next. Line up the sleeve hole, with the jacket
outer and the lining facing right sides together. Sew around the sleeve hole, leaving the jacket’s
sides open. Repeat this for both sides. When you turn it right side out, the lining will
be neatly attached to the sleeve opening. Now we’ll attach the collar. Start by trimming the corners and turning it right
side out, making sure the corners are turned well. Fold the collar in half and mark the center point. Then fold the jacket in half and find the
center point on it, as well. Putting the pieces right sides together, line up these
center points and pin it in place. Then tuck the collar in between the lining and the outer shell. Make sure the colors match. For me, the blue side of
the collar should be against the blue, and the tan against the tan. Pin all the layers together with the collar sandwiched in the middle. You’ll notice that the collar will be about a quarter inch
too short to reach to the end of the neck line. That’s exactly how it should be. We’ll finish that front edge later. Sew the layers together. Then, turn the whole thing right side out by pulling the
front of one side through the tunnel created over the shoulder, where the lining is sewn to the jacket
at the collar and the shoulder. Now that the jacket’s right side out, I realized
I was supposed to add trim around the sleeve hole before attaching the sleeve. I just forgot!
So before I sew the sides together, I measure and cut trim for the sleeve holes, and stitch
it on by hand. I always like to show when I mess stuff up, because it shows how it’s
never too late to fix a mistake, and that even when you’re experienced, you still make
mistakes all the time. Once the trim is sewn on, I fold one side
of the jacket so the lining is against itself and the outer shell is against itself, with
right sides together, making sure to line up the seam where they meet. I pin this and then sew the shell to itself, and across
to the lining, sewing the lining to itself. Do the same thing with the other side, so that all the raw edges are inside the garment. Next, we’ll attach the front flap. I fold
the corner of the collar down and pin it to keep it out of the way. Line up the finished
top seam of the front flap with the edge of the collar, where the outer shell and lining
meet. Pin the open edge of the flap against the edge of the jacket’s front, with right
sides facing each other. It’s a little tricky to attach it this way, but I find it easier
to turn the jacket right side out through the shoulder without these extra pieces attached. Once it’s neatly pinned, sew the flap into the jacket, going up one side and down the other. When you flip it right side out again, you’ll have a
neat join to the body of the jacket. Now fold the other half of the jacket so that the front
has the lining and shell sides together. Pin the edge and sew it closed. Next we’ll finish the bottom seam. Fold the
jacket inside out. It will only let you fold as far as the arm seams, so it makes a kind of fabric
taco, with the collar stuffed in the middle. I put in a few pins to hold it,
then I sew halfway across the bottom edge. I pause in the middle and move down a few
inches, leaving a small gap in the bottom seam, which I’ll use to turn the jacket right
side out again. Once the jacket is turned, I use a dowel rod
to make sure all the corners are turned neatly. Then we’ll take a needle and thread and sew
the gap closed by hand, using a ladder stitch. To do this stitch, alternate which sides you
sew on. One stitch through the tan, one stitch through the blue, until it’s all the way closed. This seam will barely be noticeable when done. Knot your thread in the seam, and then all
that’s left is finishing work. I make the gray patch for the shoulders out
of suede I cut free-handed, then add studs and pin it in place. I stitch it on by hand, adding the straps on the
points as I anchor it to the main body of the jacket. The straps are made from vinyl, with more studs to look like buttons. I add trim around the edge of
the whole thing with my machine… then add straps with buckles for front closures
by sewing and backstitching over the straps for a good hold. I also use embroidery floss and a whip stitch to
add the accent stitching on the collar, and add the silver cords and buttons across the back with fabric glue. Now his jacket is finished, and it’s looking
great. There aren’t too many steps left, but
I’ve already started the pattern for his pants, and I’ll be working on them next. Thanks for
joining me again. See you next time!

15 thoughts on “Making a lined jacket for Iplehouse EID BJDs

  1. He's coming along really nicely! I do the same thing when I'm sewing… I get so into a project that I don't remember the pins are there and sew right over it, and only see after I stick my finger on one.

  2. Wow! He looks so good! That Jacket is absolutely gorgeous! You did an amazing job on that. I'm so impressed! I can't wait for your next video! ❤️💚💙

  3. So nice to see him coming together 😀
    Thanks for sharing, your project video's are inspiring me so much for my own project x)

  4. Quite honestly, this topic was always something I dreaded so much. Unfortunately, some of my characters will wear suits, so there is no way around learning how to do this. I think thanks to your tutorial I understand the process of lining better. Thank you so much for posting this.

  5. I've been watching your videos and all I can say is you are absolutely amazing!!! that jacket looks awesome!!! hope I can one for my boys too

  6. Omg I have just found your channel a few days ago and I've already watched all of your videos and bumped it up to my second favorite doll channel! It's been really helpful and informative and you sound so sweet too. I am planning on getting Jessica from iplehouse, any tips or thoughts? Anyways keep up the good work lomi~

  7. I certainly learned something interesting from this video! So I'm pretty sure we have the same or similar models of sewing machine and I noticed you using the thread cutter on the side. I got my machine about seven years ago after my grandma passed away and in all that time, never knew that it had the thread cutter. Thank you for showing me that I also have a handy tool!

  8. 그림까지 첨부해 가며 꼼꼼하게 설명해 주신 당신의 열정이 놀랍습니다
    결과물은 perfect하다는 말밖에 할 수가 없네요~👍
    내 채널에도 많이 관심 가져 주세요

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