Making Rune’s sword: Finishing a 3D printed object

Making Rune’s sword: Finishing a 3D printed object


Hi, everyone. This is Lomi, and today we’re looking
at the process of how I made Rune’s sword. I’m not very good at sculpting, so I decided
to try 3D printing. I created a model of his sword using Blender
and had it printed by Shapeways. It’s a little rough, since I’d never done
3D modeling before, so the print will need a lot of finishing work done by hand. The surface had a lot of texture, so the first
step was smoothing it out. I didn’t want to risk losing any shape or
detail, so I decided to cover the whole sword with Bondo putty and then sand it down smooth. The process of coating and sanding took several
weeks, especially since each coat of primer put on the sword had to be sanded smooth as
well. Once I was happy with the surface, I made
a few adjustments to the hilt with epoxy clay and used a drill and knives to carve settings
for the rubies. I messed up one, which put me back to the
filling and sanding part, which took a few more weeks. I originally planned to paint the sword using black
gloss and chrome automotive lacquer spray paints. The chrome paint was beautiful, but impossible
to handle, even though it gave lovely results. Touching the paint after it was fully dried
resulted in the metallic surface turning gray, and trying to put a clear sealant on it did
the same thing. So instead of a pretty reflective chrome surface,
it was dull and blotchy. An alternate method was recommended by someone
on Den of Angels, so I decided to give it a try. I started by re-coating the hilt with black
paint, using Testors one coat lacquer. It really does cover in one coat, but these
lacquers are a metallic flake color, and I only wanted that for part of the hilt. The rest was supposed to be plain black. So I masked off that part and then gently
sanded the rest to create a surface texture that acrylic paints could adhere to. Most people will tell you not to mix different
types of paint, but it can be done if you work in a specific order. Lacquer paints should go on first, then enamel
paints on top of lacquer, and acrylic goes on last. This lets all the paints dry properly without
cracking or peeling. Once the hilt was dry and sprayed with clear
gloss, I heated pieces of chrome vinyl for automotive wraps with a hair dryer and applied
them to the blade. I thought I might need to use a card or squeegee
to apply the vinyl without bubbles, but it was so easy to work with I was able to do
it using just my fingers. I stretched the vinyl to fit as well as I could,
then used a hobby knife to cut the extra. It adheres better if you can fold the edges
under, but on this object, I had no way to do that. We’ll wait and see how well it holds up. Unlike the chrome paint, the vinyl takes well
to sealants and the manufacturer recommended using different types to achieve different
looks and increase durability. I sprayed both matte and gloss sealants on
some scraps to decide what I wanted to do. On the left of the strips, I sprayed Testors
Dullcote, and on the right, I sprayed Testors gloss. On the top strip, I used one coat of each. On the bottom strip, I sprayed gloss over
the Dullcote to restore a little shine and make a nice brushed metal look, while I sprayed
3 coats of gloss to discover they didn’t increase clouding or reduce reflectiveness of the vinyl
through multiple coats. I decided to spray the sword’s blade with
a light misting of gloss to add tooth to the surface. Then I added a dusting of blue pearl pigment
to give the blade a hint of a blue iridescent sheen. It’s not easily visible on camera, but looks
beautiful in person. It doesn’t really change the color, but it adds
a shimmer in sunlight. Once that was sealed, the last thing to do
was add the stones. I put E-6000 glue into the settings with a
pin, then pressed the stones in place. I used lab-created rubies, which were surprisingly
inexpensive. Most of them were between 50 cents and a dollar
a piece. For the pommel, I used a star ruby, which
is an item of importance in the story I’ve written for this character. And here’s how his sword looks in the end. It required a ton of patience and a lot of
experimentation in the months it took to make, but I think the end result is pretty neat. That means all that’s left for his customization
project is creating the scabbard. Then he’ll finally be done. That’s all for this week. Thank you for joining me again, and see you again
soon!

14 thoughts on “Making Rune’s sword: Finishing a 3D printed object

  1. This sword turned out really great. I so much love how Rune is coming along, and I am so eager to see him in all of his glory. Great, fantastic work!

  2. You are just crazy talented!! I absolutely love your work. I cannot wait to see him completely finished, but at the same time I'll be sad because that means no more awesome videos 😒. I really hope you do more of these for other characters you may have when Rune is finished 😊

  3. You've come along way. and it's looking fantastic! I really appreciate learning how you resolve problems and construction issues that may come up with your project. I feel like I get to learn along with you. The use of the automotive chrome was a nice touch. The addition of v the jewels was well done. For something mage of plastic it really does look like metal! I'll admit I still like how the previous metallic look came out. It may have been in between steps and considered a mistake but the ombre effect between the hilt and the blade looked really cool. Almost like it was forged straight out of a volcano or something. I'll have to keep both of those results in mind. I realty like what you've done, I ditto the other commenter I look forward to the reveal (I like that you won't show it lol every end clip is like the teaser trailer!)

  4. i've been watching this series and I'm happy that you've finally finished Rune πŸ™‚ great work girl! πŸ˜πŸ˜πŸ‘

  5. you are amazing!!! I'm so glad to see you not give up and see him through! ! I can't say I would have been able to!!! Outstandingly done!!!!! He's beautiful! !

  6. Great jobπŸ‘πŸ‘happy to subscribe your channelπŸ’•πŸ’•I print dolls using 3d print πŸ€— thanks~

  7. You are a genius You are always inspires me And the Sword that you make it's so fantastic πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ‘πŸ»πŸ’—πŸ’—πŸ’—

  8. technically you could make a doll sized chair in blender and have it printed ^-^ and attaching weights to the bottom would result in a nice chair for your dolls of various sizes

  9. I literally just learned this but there's stuff called aluminium tape you can get it at the hardware store and you stick it to something and it's instantly metal just in case you ever felt like making another sword (you can even weather it like regular metal)

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