PACO RABANNE’S MOST GLAMOROUS SHOW EVER! by Loic Prigent

PACO RABANNE’S MOST GLAMOROUS SHOW EVER! by Loic Prigent


At Paco Rabanne, a cheerful
Anna Wintour from American Vogue comes every season to show
her support to Julien Dossena. Paco Rabanne is rising
as a top influential fashion brand in the Paris
Fashion week calendar. Paco Rabanne is not hip,
Paco Rabanne is mega hip. Anna Wintour is here with
Nicolas Ghesquières from Louis Vuitton, a sort of mentor for Julien Dossena. Backstage, I talked
to a tired Julien Dossena. LOIC: How do you feel? I’m cooling down. It’s always a pleasant
feeling after the show. LOIC: Did you sleep? A bit. Badly anyway. LOIC: How many hours? A few hours. I was
waking upfrom time to time. LOIC: Nervous sleep, right? Shouting names of models, yes. The set is a thick rug
and enormous light boxes, like in the lobby of
a very chic Los Angeles hotel. LOIC: What’s the message
behind the carpet? It’s Madeleine Castaing’s
classic foliage. Like if it was the lobby of
an ideal hotel, with girls passing by. You don’t know where they’re
going to. Maybe to dinner, or to party. The idea of Beverly Hills Hotel,
Bel Air Hotel, that feeling. A bit of David Lynch too. California but also Las Vegas’ casinos. Or, as for Madeleine Castaing,
a glass roof house. Madeleine Castaing is a
French décoratrice, very talkative and fun, surrounded by brilliant
people like Françoise Sagan and brilliant bastards
like Maurice Sachs. At the end of her life, instead of
doing invasive plastic surgery, she invented this genius lifting
with a band of elastic around her face, yes, an elastic chinstrap,
which would redesign her features. As everybody screamed that they
could see the ugly elastic strap, she would say
“I don’t care, I don’t see it.” Her decorative style was full of
animal prints, crystal drops and tassels, rich carpets, Venetians
and Proustian furniture, Rick Owens referenced Madeleine Casting
in his Fall Winter 2016 collection, calling this shade of green,
” the Castaing green”. And it’s indeed “that” green. This season, the Paco Rabanne
metallurgy is more about jewelry. There are a lot of jewels,
a lot of rhinestones. I wanted the delicacy
to be pushed to the edge. I was always looking for a balance between
too much and something that is just right. I realised that you can
find a balance with too much. LOIC: A real challenge. Yes, that’s great. Some dresses are noisy, as crystals
and tassels wave and chime at every step. LOIC: Some things are
very spectacular and noisy. LOIC: Are those pendants? Yes. Like the embroidered
rhinestones Hollywood dresses. But done the Paco Rabanne way. These are nets of chains. In each cross is posed
a kind of crystal pendant – it’s like a crystal
embroidery all over the dress. We also have a similar skirt,
a bit “ In the Mood for Love”, with the black bodysuit. The idea was to have
a Hollywood embroidery refinement and to apply it to Paco
Rabanne assembly system, like the one with
the rhinestones chains. I like the idea that you
can hear a girl entering a room. Julien Dossena has fun
injecting leopard and zebra prints. LOIC: I feel like there’s
a lot of animal skins. Yes, those are printed on woolen cloth. Like in Roxy Music: lots of zebras,
lurex tigers, David Bowie stuff – the styles that I like a lot. The mix of all these
gives me a lot of fun. Creating this meeting between two worlds
and succeeding in something refined. It’s Paco Glamour.
All the references are glamour. Glamour of many decades, Hollywood Glamour, Rock’n’roll glamour, everything glamour! Even military glamour
with napoleonic jackets. LOIC: What did you start with
for the hussar jackets? It evokes military stately jackets, almost
Académie Française in the embroideries. But it’s an image of
Russian or English aristocracy. The idea was to give a sort of
Jimi Hendrix’s fit to the military jacket. I thought it could apply
to other kinds of clothing, something that elevates the rest. If it’s a dress,
it needs to be a Hollywood dress. If it’s a jacket,
it’s military stately jacket. If it’s a jewel,
it’s the Queen of England’s. You have to look for the register that is
the most refined in each type of clothing. The French actresses are raving. We were just saying that it’s genius.
We loved some dresses, even myself who never wear dresses. JULIEN:
Which one would you steal? The really gothic transparent dress. Black with strass and
very pleasantly worn. It inspires me. The model and activist
Inès Rau is a fan. What I like about Julien, is that
he takes over iconic codes of the past and renews them for nowadays. It was light, feminine but it kept that “Paco Rabanne armor”
vibe that I thought was fabulous. I loved the collection. LOIC: Is it easy to wear? Very easy! It’s like an armor,
you feel great inside. LOIC: And is it easy to take off? Yes. It’s important, it has to be
easier to take off then to put on! LOIC:
It’s a collections for red carpets, no? Yes, indeed.
Perfect for red carpets. Actually, I wore a Paco Rabanne dress
at Golden Globe ceremony it was very easy
to take it off later. LOIC:
Did it require some welding? No!
Just raise your hands and a young man takes it off for you. Takes 2 seconds. That was my Paco Rabanne Fall/Winter
2019-2020 by Julien Dossena focus.

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