Sewing Tutorial Continuous Skirt for many Heirloom Embellishments

Sewing Tutorial Continuous Skirt for many Heirloom Embellishments

Hey everyone, here is how I make one of those
gloriously embellished skirts with a high yoke dress. The possibilities for embellishing this style
are endless… seriously, think French lace, tatted lace, lace tape, fabric tucks, pin
tucks, embroidery work, applique work… you get my drift. But the overall construction is similar and
I’m going to break down how I do that construction here in this video. And my dress is fully lined, but you could
opt to have only your yoke lined if you wish. So you’ll need a high yoke pattern – I’m
using CC Lee, which is linked down below, but any yoke will work. CC Jamie also has a yoke included in that
pattern. To save on fabric, I fold the selvedge edge
over and use that as the fold for my pattern pieces. You’ll need two front yoke pieces cut on
the fold as well as two yoke back pieces cut on the fold. If you want fabric sleeves, then cut those
out, but I’m doing to do lace sleeves instead. Then you’ll need one big panel of fabric
for your skirt. The size will depend on your little one and
your preference. Keep in mind that 2x is a gradual gathering
ratio while 3x is the more common ratio and 4x and beyond are pretty full gathers. So there are two choices you have when constructing
the yoke pieces together. You could do that normal ring, as I call it,
and that is my preferred method. Just a quick fresher, that’s when you join
all the shoulder seams together so you’ll have a front, back, front, back, and then
fold the back pieces onto themselves. It’s super easy and I love not having a
seam down the back pieces. However, if you are going to put a piece of
lace where you need to enclose the raw edges in that back seam as I am doing in this tutorial,
then that’ll require that you cut out only the yoke fronts on the fold but then cut out
the yoke back pieces individually – so you’ll have four yoke backs total instead of two
cut on the fold. I hope all of that is making sense. So I joined the shoulder seams together for
the dress yoke as well as the lining yoke. And then I attached the piece of lace to the
neckline by hand. Finally, I put the yoke together with its
lining with right sides together and sewed from one center back, all the way around the
neckline, and back down the other center back. I also sewed down each of the sides of the
yoke. Remember, I am not attaching fabric sleeves
to mine. Then I trim up the seam allowance and clip
the curves. I use this little pointer tool to push out
those corners. And there you go, my finished yoke assembly. As I mentioned earlier, I prefer the ring
method to this route, but this allows me to conceal the raw edges of my lace, so there
you go. Alright, now my yoke is prepared and I can
move onto my skirt. I prefer to do a continuous skirt for dresser
garments for a few reasons, it eliminates the side seams, which makes it visually cleaner
in my book, but it also makes it easier to construct since you only need to focus on
the lines coming together at the seam in the back of the dress, not two seams on each side
of the dress. And let’s face it, normally the back of
the dress is not seen or photographed as much as the sides of the dress. So anywho, I figure out what I want as far
as embellishments. And as I said earlier, the possibilities are
endless. Everything from French lace to this tatting
to some shadow work embroidery to monograms, you name it… have fun with it. But the idea is to do all your embellishing
now. This includes any lace hem treatments. You are only going to have one seam to conceal
those raw edges of the lace in, so if you want a lace hem, you need to attach it now
to conceal those raw edges. When I was all done with my embellishments,
I joined the skirt panel together at the back seam using a French seam, and I have a detailed
video on how to do French seams that I’ll link below. And notice that I’m leaving an opening at
the top of the skirt. You can put a placket in this opening to conceal
those raw edges, and there are a number of ways to finish this placket, and I have several
methods that are linked down below. Now if you want to skip the placket, that’s
fine too. I’m actually going to keep the selvedge
edge intact (although that’s not necessary) and then just turn it under to the wrong side,
and since I am fully lining this dress, I’m going to get away with that… I’ll explain more in a bit. Once I had the placket done, then I folded
the skirt so that the center back is on top of the center front. Then I folded that again and ironed that fold
down so there would be a crease. This is how I easily mark the placement for
those armholes. Then I just cut those armholes out. It’s pretty easy to just free-hand cut them
out like this, so don’t over think it. Of course, you could use a blocking guide
from a smocking pattern or trace the fabric so you give yourself a mark to follow as you’re
cutting out. To conceal this curve, I take a bias band
that is 2 inches wide and fold that in half and give it an ironing. Then I sew that together with the right sides
together to the curve of that armhole. Then I folded the band over again and sewed
over that folded edge. Then I moved onto gathering that skirt, but
another lovely option would be some pleats, like inverted box pleats or so, anywho, it’s
sewing so you do you. But I put in two rows of gathering stitches
and the idea of two rows is that you’ll have one row on either side of where your
seam will go and having two rows really helps to keep your gathers from going crooked when
you go to sew over top of them later on. I gather all three sections, you know, each
back section and then that front section. Then I match up those gathers to their respective
section, making sure that that underarm bias band is folded under to the wrong side of
the dress so you don’t see on the right side of the garment. And then I just sew along being careful not
to catch the lining of the yoke in the mix. I don’t want that lining in this seam. Instead, I’m going to do the same thing
with the lining side. I’m going to get a panel for the skirt,
join it a the back seam, and then put in those underarm areas, you know, repeating that same
bias band idea. And then I’m going to gather that skirt
up and join it to the lining side. Now this is optional, and if you didn’t
want to line the skirt of your garment, then simply fold under the bottom raw edge of your
yoke lining and hand sew that into place. Easy peasy. So now it’s a matter of doing some hand
sewing finishing work to sew those underarms together and then those bands will be completely
hidden. And additionally, I’m going to sew those
folded openings in the back together so all of that is all tidy. I’m also hand sewing these tatted sleeves
to the dress, and I have another video that overviews how to work with ready-made tatting,
and I also have a video series on how to shuttle tat your own lace. From there, you can add whatever snaps or
buttons and voila, your dress is done. I hope this video was helpful. If you have any questions, please leave them
in the comments below and I’ll do my best to answer them. As always, I appreciate y’all for watching
and I hope to catch ya next time.

4 thoughts on “Sewing Tutorial Continuous Skirt for many Heirloom Embellishments

  1. Just beautiful!! I love watching your videos when you apply your math skills to your sewing skills. How long did it take to make this dress?

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